Red anthurium flamingo flower with glossy heart-shaped spathe in a terracotta pot on a white marble surface in bright home interior

How to Care for Anthurium: Complete Guide to Flamingo Flower Indoors

With their glossy, heart-shaped spathes in shades of red, pink, coral, white, and burgundy, anthuriums are among the most visually dramatic houseplants you can grow. Also known as the flamingo flower, painter's palette, or laceleaf plant, Anthurium andraeanum and its relatives bring a tropical luxury to any indoor space — and contrary to their exotic appearance, they're genuinely rewarding to grow if you understand their needs.

In this complete anthurium care guide, we'll cover everything from light and watering to troubleshooting, fertilizing, propagation, and the most common reasons anthuriums stop blooming. Whether you have a classic red anthurium on your windowsill or a rare velvet-leaf variety, this guide has you covered.

About Anthuriums

Anthuriums belong to the family Araceae (the aroid family) and are native to Central and South America, where they grow as epiphytes — meaning they anchor to trees and absorb moisture and nutrients from the air and rain rather than from deep soil. There are over 1,000 species in the genus, ranging from compact flowering varieties to enormous foliage plants with leaves that can span several feet.

The most commonly grown species as a houseplant is Anthurium andraeanum, valued for its long-lasting, waxy spathes (the colorful "flower" part is actually a modified leaf called a spathe; the true flowers are the tiny bumps on the finger-like spadix). These spathes can last 6–8 weeks on the plant, making anthuriums one of the longest-blooming flowering houseplants available.

Popular Anthurium Varieties

Anthurium andraeanum 'Red Champion' — The classic deep red spathe, widely available and reliably floriferous
Anthurium andraeanum 'White' — Elegant white or cream spathes; slightly more shade-tolerant
Anthurium andraeanum 'Pink' — Soft pink to hot pink spathes; very popular in modern interiors
Anthurium andraeanum 'Black Queen' — Deep burgundy to near-black spathes for a dramatic look
Anthurium crystallinum — Grown for its velvety, dark green leaves with dramatic silver veining; a foliage collector's favorite
Anthurium clarinervium — Heart-shaped, thick leaves with white veining; one of the most sought-after velvet anthuriums
Anthurium scherzerianum (Flamingo Plant) — Compact size with curly spadix; great for smaller spaces
Anthurium warocqueanum (Queen Anthurium) — Long, strap-like velvety leaves; a dramatic collector plant

Anthurium Care Quick Reference

Care Factor	Requirement	Key Notes
Light	Bright indirect light	No direct sun; east or west window ideal
Water	Water when top 1–2 inches dry	Never let sit in standing water
Humidity	60–80% ideal; 50%+ minimum	Humidifier is most effective
Temperature	65–85°F (18–29°C)	Never below 55°F; no cold drafts
Soil	Chunky, very well-draining orchid-style mix	Orchid bark + perlite + potting mix
Fertilizer	High-phosphorus, every 6–8 weeks (growing season)	Dilute to 1/4 strength; avoid over-feeding
Repotting	Every 2 years or when rootbound	Spring; one pot size up only
Toxicity	Toxic to cats, dogs, and humans	Keep away from pets and children

Light: Getting the Balance Right

Anthuriums are native to the tropical forest understorey, which means they evolved under a canopy of larger trees — they receive bright but diffused light, never harsh direct sun. Indoors, this translates to bright indirect light being ideal.

Best Light Placement

East-facing windows — Perfect. They receive gentle morning sun and bright indirect light for the rest of the day.
West-facing windows — Good, but place the plant a few feet back from the glass to avoid intense afternoon sun.
South-facing windows — Works well if the plant is 3–5 feet from the window, or filtered through a sheer curtain.
North-facing windows — May be too dim for reliable blooming, but foliage anthuriums (like A. crystallinum) can manage.

Signs of Too Much Light

Yellow or bleached patches on leaves (sun scorch)
Spathes fading quickly or turning green prematurely
Dry, crispy leaf edges

Signs of Too Little Light

No flowers produced, or very infrequent blooming
Long internodes (stretched, leggy stems)
Dark green leaves that lack vibrancy
Slow or stopped growth

Anthuriums need adequate light to bloom. If yours hasn't flowered in months, insufficient light is the most likely cause. Consider supplementing with a quality grow light during low-light winter months.

Watering Anthuriums

As epiphytic plants, anthuriums have roots that are adapted to absorb water and then dry out — they don't like sitting in constantly moist soil. The watering mantra for anthuriums is: water thoroughly, then let it partially dry before watering again.

How to Water

Water thoroughly until water flows freely from the drainage holes. Then wait until the top 1–2 inches of soil feel dry before watering again. In spring and summer, this might mean watering every 5–7 days. In fall and winter, extend to every 10–14 days.

The biggest mistake with anthuriums is overwatering. They are highly susceptible to root rot — soggy soil kills them quickly. If in doubt, wait an extra day or two before watering. An underwatered anthurium looks droopy and recovers quickly when watered; an overwatered one develops mushy roots and may not recover at all.

Water Quality

Like most tropical aroids, anthuriums prefer water that isn't heavily chlorinated. Room-temperature filtered water or water that has sat overnight in an open container is ideal. Hard water can cause mineral salt buildup in the root zone over time — flush the soil every 2–3 months by watering abundantly until water runs clear from the drainage holes.

For guidance on diagnosing water-related problems, see our guide on overwatered vs. underwatered plants.

Humidity Requirements

Anthuriums are humidity-loving tropical plants — they genuinely thrive in higher humidity and simply survive in lower humidity. The ideal range is 60–80% relative humidity, though many growers achieve good results at 50–60%.

Standard home humidity of 30–40% is technically enough for an anthurium to survive, but at these levels you'll see slower growth, reduced flowering, and more susceptibility to spider mites.

Humidity Solutions

Best: A cool-mist humidifier placed nearby is the most reliable and consistent solution. Run it during daylight hours especially in dry winter months.

Good: Pebble trays work for mild humidity boosts. Fill a tray with pebbles, add water below the pebble surface, and set the plant on top.

Helpful: Placement in humid rooms — bathrooms with natural light are excellent for anthuriums. The steam from showers creates the tropical humidity they love. Read our bathroom plant guide for more humidity-loving species.

OK for foliage: Grouping plants — clustering anthuriums with other tropical plants slightly raises local humidity through shared transpiration.

Temperature

Anthuriums are warm-weather plants that dislike the cold. Keep them between 65–85°F (18–29°C). They can tolerate brief exposures down to around 55°F (13°C), but sustained cold causes:

Yellowing leaves
Slowed or stopped growth
Cold-damaged, darkened leaf tissue
Wilting that doesn't resolve with watering

Key temperature hazards to avoid: air conditioning vents blowing directly on the plant, cold drafts from frequently opened doors or windows, and placement against cold exterior walls in winter. If you move plants outdoors in summer (anthuriums love warm, humid outdoor summers in shadier spots), bring them inside before nighttime temperatures drop below 60°F.

Soil for Anthuriums

Because anthuriums are epiphytes, they need a very different soil environment than typical houseplants. Standard potting soil is often too dense and water-retentive — it doesn't mimic the airy, fast-draining conditions of tree bark and organic debris that anthuriums naturally root into.

The Ideal Anthurium Potting Mix

Create a chunky, well-aerated mix:

40% orchid bark (medium to large chunks — provides drainage and aeration)
20% perlite (further improves drainage)
20% quality potting mix (provides some moisture retention and nutrients)
20% coco coir or peat (moisture retention and slight acidity)

This mix drains rapidly but retains just enough moisture for the roots to absorb what they need. The large orchid bark pieces also leave air pockets around the roots, which is important because anthurium roots need oxygen — they can't thrive in compacted, airless soil.

A soil pH of 5.5–6.5 (slightly acidic) is ideal. Read more in our indoor plant soil guide.

Fertilizing for Flowers and Foliage

To encourage flowering, anthuriums benefit from a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus ratio (the middle number in NPK). Phosphorus promotes root development and flowering. A fertilizer labeled as an orchid fertilizer (e.g., 10-30-20 or similar) works excellently.

Fertilizer Schedule

Spring–Summer: Feed every 6–8 weeks with a diluted liquid fertilizer (1/4 to 1/2 strength)
Fall: Reduce to every 8 weeks
Winter: Stop fertilizing entirely or feed once only in midwinter if the plant is actively growing under good light

Over-fertilizing is a common mistake — it causes salt buildup in the soil, leading to brown leaf tips and root burn. Always err on the side of less fertilizer rather than more. Flush the soil periodically to remove accumulated salts. See our complete fertilizer guide for more detail.

How to Get Your Anthurium to Bloom Again

One of the most common questions we receive is: "My anthurium bloomed when I bought it, but now it won't flower. What am I doing wrong?" Here's the systematic approach:

Step 1: Assess Light

Insufficient light is the #1 reason anthuriums stop blooming. Ensure the plant receives at least 4–6 hours of bright indirect light daily. If your home is dark, use a grow light on a 12-hour timer.

Step 2: Check Temperature

Anthuriums bloom best in warmer temperatures (70–85°F). Consistent cool temperatures (below 65°F) inhibit flowering. Ensure the plant isn't too cold.

Step 3: Fertilize with Phosphorus

Switch to a high-phosphorus fertilizer (or orchid fertilizer) during the growing season. Phosphorus directly stimulates flowering.

Step 4: Slight Drought Stress

Some growers find that allowing the top 2 inches of soil to dry out slightly between waterings (rather than watering at the top 1 inch) can trigger flowering response — mimicking a brief dry season in their native habitat.

Step 5: Be Patient and Consistent

Anthuriums bloom on their own schedule. A healthy, well-cared-for plant will eventually flower — typically producing 3–6 new spathes per year. Once conditions are optimized, it may take 1–3 months before you see a new spathe beginning to form.

Repotting Anthuriums

Repot your anthurium every 2–3 years, or when you notice roots circling the bottom of the pot, growing out of drainage holes, or when the plant seems to have stopped growing despite good care. Spring is the ideal time.

How to Repot

Select a new pot only 1–2 inches larger in diameter. Anthuriums don't like being in oversized pots — excess soil stays wet and promotes root rot.
Choose a pot with excellent drainage — multiple holes are best. Unglazed terra cotta is excellent because it allows the soil to breathe and dry more evenly.
Prepare your chunky anthurium soil mix.
Gently remove the plant, inspect roots, and trim any dark or mushy roots with sterile scissors.
Note that anthuriums develop thick, white aerial roots — these are normal and healthy. You can bury them slightly in the new mix or leave them exposed; they'll adapt either way.
Pot up and water in well. Keep in indirect light and avoid fertilizing for 6 weeks.

For complete repotting guidance, see our step-by-step repotting guide.

Propagating Anthuriums

Anthuriums can be propagated through stem cuttings or division. They don't propagate easily from leaf cuttings alone (unlike some aroids); you need stem tissue with a node.

Division (Easiest Method)

When repotting a mature anthurium that has developed multiple crowns or offset stems, carefully separate them, ensuring each section has roots attached. Plant each division in the appropriate soil mix and keep warm and humid while it establishes — typically 4–8 weeks for strong root establishment.

Stem Cuttings

Identify a stem with at least 1–2 nodes (the points where leaves attach) and ideally some aerial roots already present.
Cut below a node with clean, sharp scissors. The cutting can be rooted in water, damp sphagnum moss, or directly in the anthurium soil mix.
Maintain high humidity (70%+) around the cutting — a clear plastic bag or propagation box over the cutting works well.
Provide bright indirect light and warmth (ideally 70–80°F).
Roots develop in 4–8 weeks. Once the plant shows new leaf growth, it's established enough to care for normally.

For more propagation techniques, see our guide on how to propagate houseplants.

Common Anthurium Problems and Solutions

Yellow Leaves

Most common cause: Overwatering leading to root rot, or natural aging of lower leaves.

Fix: Check soil — if soggy, remove from pot, inspect roots, trim rotted roots, and repot in fresh chunky mix. Water less frequently. One or two yellow lower leaves per month is normal aging; widespread yellowing indicates a care problem. See our yellow leaves guide.

Brown Leaf Tips

Causes: Low humidity, over-fertilization (salt burn), fluoridated tap water, or underwatering.

Fix: Increase humidity, flush soil to remove salt buildup, switch to filtered water, and check soil moisture more regularly.

Drooping or Wilting

Causes: Underwatering (soil bone dry), overwatering/root rot (soil soggy), or temperature shock.

Fix: Check soil moisture immediately. If dry, water thoroughly. If soggy, let dry out and check roots. If roots are healthy and moisture is adequate, check for temperature stress.

Spathes Turning Green

It's completely normal for anthurium spathes to gradually turn green as they age — this is part of their natural life cycle. Green spathes are still photosynthesizing and contributing to the plant. You can remove them once they become fully green and start to look tired.

No New Leaves or Growth

Causes: Insufficient light, rootbound plant, very low humidity, or fertilizer deficiency.

Fix: Increase light, check if repotting is needed, boost humidity, and resume fertilizing in the growing season.

Root Rot

The most serious anthurium problem. Signs include: yellowing/wilting despite moist soil, mushy stems at the base, foul smell from the pot. Act quickly: remove from pot, cut all mushy roots, dust with cinnamon (a natural antifungal), let dry for 2–3 hours, then repot in fresh chunky mix. Treat with a diluted hydrogen peroxide solution (1 part H₂O₂ to 4 parts water) to kill remaining fungal spores. Our root rot treatment guide covers the full rescue process.

Pests

Anthuriums can be affected by:

Spider mites — particularly in low humidity. Look for fine webbing and stippled leaves. Treat with neem oil and raise humidity.
Mealybugs — white cottony clusters in leaf axils and on stems. Remove manually with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, then treat with insecticidal soap.
Scale insects — brown bumps on stems. Scrape off and treat with neem oil.
Fungus gnats — larvae live in soil and can damage roots in severely infested cases. Let soil dry more between waterings and use yellow sticky traps. See our fungus gnat guide.

For visual identification of all these pests, refer to our plant pest identification guide.

Anthurium Toxicity — Important Warning

Unlike the prayer plant discussed in other guides, anthuriums are toxic to humans and animals. All parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate crystals, which cause intense burning and irritation of the mouth, tongue, and throat if ingested. Skin contact with the sap can also cause irritation in sensitive individuals.

Keep anthuriums well out of reach of children and pets. If you're looking for beautiful flowering alternatives that are pet-safe, explore our pet-friendly houseplant collection. For cat and dog owners who want flowering plants, non-toxic options include orchids, African violets, and Boston ferns.

Anthurium vs. Peace Lily: Comparing Two Elegant Aroids

Feature	Anthurium	Peace Lily
Family	Araceae	Araceae
Flower color range	Red, pink, white, orange, purple, green	White only
Bloom duration	6–8 weeks per spathe	1–2 months per season
Light tolerance	Needs bright indirect light to bloom	Tolerates lower light; blooms with more light
Humidity needs	60–80% preferred	40–50% acceptable
Soil preference	Very chunky, fast-draining	Well-draining potting mix
Toxicity	Toxic to pets and humans	Toxic to pets and humans
Ease of care	Moderate	Easy to moderate

Both are stunning aroids — if you want a wider color palette and longer-lasting individual blooms, anthurium wins. If you want a forgiving plant that tolerates lower light and less perfect conditions, the peace lily may be the better choice for beginners.

Anthuriums in Different Home Spaces

Living Room

Anthuriums make a bold statement in living rooms, particularly near bright windows. Their long-lasting colored spathes make them excellent "anchor" plants in decorative arrangements. Red or coral anthuriums photograph beautifully against neutral walls.

Bathroom

With adequate light, bathrooms are actually ideal for anthuriums — the steam provides the humidity they crave naturally. A small anthurium on a bathroom shelf with window light can thrive for years with minimal intervention. Browse our bathroom plant guide for more ideas.

Office or Desk

Compact anthurium varieties make excellent desk plants — they're striking enough to brighten a workspace without requiring constant attention. Just ensure the desk is near adequate natural light. See our office plant guide for compatible options.

Terrariums

Small anthurium varieties can be grown in large open terrariums that maintain high humidity. Anthurium scherzerianum works particularly well. Browse our terrarium plant collection and our terrarium guide for compatible species.

Seasonal Anthurium Care

Spring (March–May)

Resume fertilizing with high-phosphorus liquid fertilizer
Repot if rootbound
Increase watering frequency as growth accelerates
This is peak blooming period — expect new spathes if conditions are right

Summer (June–August)

Continue regular watering and feeding
Monitor for spider mites — hot, dry conditions favor them
Run humidifier if air conditioning is drying your home
Consider moving to a shadier outdoor spot in warm weather (temperatures above 60°F at night)

Fall (September–October)

Taper fertilizer to every 8 weeks
Reduce watering slightly as growth slows
Bring any outdoor plants inside before temperatures drop below 60°F

Winter (November–February)

Stop fertilizing entirely
Water less frequently — check soil before every watering
Run humidifier consistently — central heating dries air significantly
Move to the brightest available spot to compensate for shorter days
Supplement with a grow light if natural light is very low

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do anthurium flowers last?

Individual anthurium spathes typically last 6–8 weeks on the plant. After that, they naturally begin to turn green and eventually fade. Remove spent spathes by cutting them at the base once they look tired.

How often should I water my anthurium?

Water when the top 1–2 inches of soil feel dry. In most home conditions, this is roughly every 5–7 days in summer and every 10–14 days in winter. Always check before watering rather than following a fixed schedule.

Why are my anthurium leaves turning yellow?

The most common causes are overwatering, insufficient light, or natural aging of lower leaves. Check soil moisture first — if soggy, let it dry and reduce watering. One or two yellow leaves is normal; widespread yellowing indicates a problem.

Are anthuriums good for beginners?

Anthuriums are moderate difficulty — not the easiest houseplant, but manageable with attention to watering and humidity. If you want something easier to start with, browse our easy-care collection. If you're confident in your plant care skills, anthuriums are incredibly rewarding.

Can anthurium grow in low light?

Anthuriums can survive in lower light but will not flower without adequate bright indirect light. Foliage varieties (like A. crystallinum) tolerate lower light better than flowering varieties. For true low-light spaces, see our low-light plant guide.

How do I make my anthurium bushier?

Anthuriums grow as single-crowned plants by nature, but they do produce offsets over time. To encourage fuller growth, ensure optimal light and fertilize consistently during the growing season. Removing dead or declining leaves also redirects energy to new growth.

Where to Buy Anthuriums

When purchasing anthuriums, look for plants with:

At least one fully open spathe (so you can assess true color) and ideally one or two more in bud
Rich, dark green leaves without yellowing, browning, or wilting
No visible pests on leaves or stems
Firm roots (visible at drainage holes) but not severely rootbound
A reputable seller that ships with insulation and heat packs in cold months

Explore our bestselling plant collection and new arrivals, or browse our full range at Divine Roots. We specialize in rare and beautiful tropical aroids shipped directly to your door.

Final Thoughts: The Anthurium Reward

Anthuriums are one of the most visually spectacular flowering houseplants you can grow — and the good news is that their care, once understood, is not as difficult as their exotic appearance might suggest. The keys are:

Bright indirect light (for flowering varieties)
A chunky, very well-draining soil mix
Consistent moisture without waterlogging
High humidity (50%+, ideally higher)
Warm temperatures and protection from cold drafts

Get these fundamentals right and your anthurium will reward you with those extraordinary, long-lasting spathes year after year. Whether you choose a classic red flowering anthurium or a collector-grade velvet foliage variety, these plants bring an irreplaceable tropical luxury to any indoor space.

Ready to start your anthurium journey? Browse our full plant selection at Divine Roots and find your perfect tropical companion today.

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