How to Care for Pothos
How to Care for Pothos: The Complete Guide
Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is the houseplant world's greatest confidence builder. Whether you're a first-time plant parent or a seasoned collector, this trailing vine rewards your care with fast, lush growth — and forgives nearly every mistake along the way. Here's everything you need to know to help your Pothos thrive.
Pothos at a Glance
| Botanical Name | Epipremnum aureum |
| Common Names | Pothos, Devil's Ivy, Golden Pothos |
| Plant Type | Evergreen trailing vine |
| Mature Size | 6–10 ft. indoors (20–40 ft. in native habitat) |
| Light | Low to bright indirect |
| Water | When top 1–2 inches of soil are dry |
| Humidity | Average household (40–60%) |
| Temperature | 65–85°F (18–29°C) |
| Soil | Well-draining potting mix |
| Toxicity | Mildly toxic to pets and children |
| Difficulty | Beginner-friendly |
Light Requirements
One of the reasons Pothos earned the nickname "devil's ivy" is its remarkable adaptability to almost any lighting situation. It's one of the best low-light indoor plants you can grow — surviving in dim hallways and windowless bathrooms where most plants would give up.
That said, Pothos thrives in bright, indirect light. You'll notice faster growth, larger leaves, and more vivid variegation when it gets good light. Here's a quick breakdown:
- Bright indirect light — Ideal. Place within 3–5 feet of a south- or west-facing window, out of direct sun rays. This produces the fastest, fullest growth.
- Medium light — Still excellent. Near east-facing windows or a few feet back from brighter windows.
- Low light — Survives just fine, but growth slows and variegation may fade to solid green. If your Pothos loses its pattern, it's telling you it wants more light.
- Direct sun — Avoid. Intense, direct sunlight scorches leaves, leaving brown, crispy patches.
Pro tip: If you notice your variegated Pothos turning mostly solid green, move it to a brighter spot. The plant reverts to more chlorophyll (green) production in low light to compensate for reduced energy.
Watering
Overwatering is the number-one way well-meaning plant parents accidentally harm their Pothos. This vine stores moisture in its thick, waxy leaves and stems, making it naturally drought-tolerant.
The golden rule: Wait until the top 1–2 inches of soil feel dry before watering. Push your finger into the soil — if it feels damp, wait. When you do water, water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom of the pot. Always empty any standing water from saucers.
- Spring/Summer: Water roughly every 7–10 days (more frequently in bright light or warm conditions)
- Fall/Winter: Reduce to every 10–14 days as growth slows
- Signs of underwatering: Leaves droop and wilt (but perk up quickly after watering)
- Signs of overwatering: Yellow leaves, mushy stems, soil that stays wet for days
Pothos is one of the best "communicator" plants — it visibly droops when thirsty and perks right back up within hours of watering. This instant feedback loop makes it a fantastic plant for learning watering intuition.
Humidity
Average household humidity (40–60%) is perfectly fine for Pothos. Unlike some tropical plants that demand constant misting and pebble trays, Pothos adapts comfortably to standard indoor conditions.
That said, if you want to pamper your Pothos (or your home runs especially dry in winter), it will appreciate:
- Grouping with other plants to create a micro-humidity zone
- Occasional misting (not required, but the leaves enjoy it)
- Placement in naturally humid rooms like kitchens or bathrooms
Temperature
Pothos prefers the same temperatures humans do — between 65–85°F (18–29°C). It's not cold-hardy, so keep it away from drafty windows, exterior doors, and air-conditioning vents during winter.
Temperatures below 50°F (10°C) can cause leaf damage and stunted growth. If you put your Pothos outdoors during summer, bring it back inside well before nighttime temperatures dip below 55°F.
Soil
Pothos isn't fussy about soil, but it does need good drainage. A standard indoor potting mix works well. For optimal results, mix in some perlite or orchid bark to improve aeration and prevent water from sitting around the roots too long.
A good Pothos soil recipe:
- 2 parts standard potting mix
- 1 part perlite
- Optional: a small handful of orchid bark for extra drainage
Make sure your pot has drainage holes. Pothos in pots without drainage is a recipe for root rot. If you're unsure when to repot your Pothos, look for roots growing out of the drainage holes or circling the bottom of the pot — that's your signal.
Fertilizing
Pothos isn't a heavy feeder, but a little nutrition goes a long way during the growing season:
- Growing season (spring–summer): Feed once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer (10-10-10 or 20-20-20) diluted to half strength
- Fall/Winter: Stop fertilizing. The plant's growth naturally slows, and unused nutrients can build up in the soil and burn roots
- Signs of over-fertilizing: Brown leaf tips, white crust on soil surface, stunted growth
Propagation
Pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to propagate — and it's a wonderful way to share plants with friends or fill out a sparse pot. Here's how:
Water Propagation (Easiest Method)
- Identify a healthy vine and locate the small brown bumps on the stem — these are aerial root nodes
- Cut just below a node, making sure your cutting includes at least one leaf and one node
- Remove any leaves that would be submerged in water
- Place the cutting in a jar of clean water, keeping the node submerged
- Set in bright indirect light and change the water weekly
- Roots typically appear within 1–2 weeks
- Once roots are 2–3 inches long, transplant into soil
Soil Propagation
- Take a cutting with at least one node (same as above)
- Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional but speeds things up)
- Plant directly into moist potting mix, burying the node
- Keep the soil lightly moist and provide bright indirect light
- Roots develop in 2–4 weeks
Common Problems
Yellow Leaves
The most common Pothos complaint. Yellow leaves typically signal overwatering. Check that you're letting the soil dry between waterings and that your pot has proper drainage. Occasionally, older leaves at the base of the plant yellow naturally — this is normal.
Brown Leaf Tips
Usually caused by underwatering, low humidity, or fertilizer burn. Trim the brown tips with clean scissors, then address the underlying cause.
Leggy, Sparse Growth
Pothos that grows long vines with wide gaps between leaves isn't getting enough light. Move it closer to a window. Regular pruning also encourages bushier growth — cut vines back to the desired length, and the plant will branch at the cut point.
Root Rot
Caused by consistently soggy soil. If you notice mushy, black roots and a foul smell when you unpot the plant, trim away all rotten roots, let healthy roots dry briefly, and repot into fresh, well-draining soil. Reduce watering frequency going forward.
Pests
Pothos is relatively pest-resistant, but can occasionally attract mealybugs and spider mites. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth regularly, and treat infestations with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Popular Pothos Varieties
The Pothos family includes dozens of gorgeous varieties. Here are some favorites we grow at Divine Roots:
- Pothos Baltic Blue — Deep blue-green leaves that develop dramatic fenestrations (natural splits) as they mature. A stunning, less common variety that's just as easy to grow as Golden Pothos.
Looking for more beginner-friendly plants? Pothos pairs beautifully with other easy-care trailing plants like Philodendrons and Tradescantia.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I water my Pothos?
Water your Pothos when the top 1–2 inches of soil feel dry — typically every 7–10 days in spring/summer and every 10–14 days in fall/winter. Always check the soil before watering rather than following a rigid schedule, since factors like light, temperature, and pot size affect how quickly soil dries.
Can Pothos grow in water permanently?
Yes! Pothos can live in water indefinitely. Change the water every 1–2 weeks and add a drop of liquid fertilizer monthly to provide nutrients the plant would normally get from soil. Growth will be slower than in soil, but many people enjoy the clean, low-maintenance look of Pothos in a glass vase.
Is Pothos safe for pets?
Pothos contains calcium oxalate crystals and is mildly toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. It can cause mouth irritation, drooling, and vomiting. Keep Pothos on high shelves or in hanging baskets out of reach, or choose pet-safe alternatives like Spider Plants or Calathea.
Why are my Pothos leaves turning yellow?
The most common cause is overwatering. Check that the soil isn't staying soggy and that your pot has drainage holes. Other causes include too much direct sunlight, cold drafts, or natural aging of older leaves at the base of the plant.
How do I make my Pothos grow faster?
Give it bright indirect light, water consistently (not excessively), fertilize monthly during spring and summer, and keep it in a warm spot (65–85°F). Pruning leggy vines also encourages the plant to branch and fill out faster.
Ready to add a Pothos to your collection? Shop our Pothos Baltic Blue — grown, rooted, and shipped with care by the Divine Roots team. Every plant is a living gift, rooted in love and ready to grow.