Plant Care

How to Care for Begonia: The Complete Guide With over 2,000 species and countless hybrids, Begonias offer something for every plant lover — from dramatic polka-dotted foliage to cascading flower clusters. These versatile beauties are some of our most beloved plants at Divine Roots Botanicals. Here's how to keep them thriving. Begonia at a Glance Botanical Name Begonia spp. Common Names Begonia, Angel Wing Begonia, Rex Begonia, Cane Begonia Plant Type Tropical perennial Mature Size 6 inches – 5 ft. (varies by type) Light Bright indirect Water When top inch of soil is dry Humidity 50–70% Temperature 60–75°F (16–24°C) Soil Light, well-draining, slightly acidic Toxicity Toxic to pets (especially roots/tubers) Difficulty Easy to moderate Light Requirements Most Begonias thrive in bright, indirect light. They need enough light to produce their stunning foliage patterns and flowers, but direct sun scorches their delicate leaves. Bright indirect — Ideal for all types. Near east- or north-facing windows works well. Medium light — Acceptable for foliage types. Flowering may decrease. Direct sun — Avoid. Causes leaf scorch and bleached spots. Low light — Most Begonias struggle. Colors fade, growth stalls, and flowering stops. Watering Begonias prefer to stay lightly moist but never waterlogged. Their stems are succulent-like and store water, making them somewhat drought-tolerant but very susceptible to root rot from overwatering. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry Water at the base — avoid getting water on leaves (it causes powdery mildew and leaf spots) Spring/Summer: Every 5–7 days Fall/Winter: Every 7–14 days Humidity Begonias appreciate 50–70% humidity. While they tolerate average indoor conditions, higher humidity produces lush, vibrant foliage. Use a humidifier or pebble tray — but avoid misting, as wet leaves invite disease. Temperature Begonias prefer 60–75°F (16–24°C). They're more cold-sensitive than many houseplants — avoid temperatures below 55°F and keep away from drafts. Soil Use a light, airy, well-draining mix: 2 parts peat moss or coco coir 1 part perlite 1 part fine orchid bark Begonias prefer slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5–6.5). Good drainage is critical — their stems and roots rot quickly in heavy, wet soil. Fertilizing Feed every 2–4 weeks during spring/summer with balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength Stop in fall/winter For Angel Wing Begonias, a bloom-boosting fertilizer (higher phosphorus) encourages flowering Propagation Begonias propagate readily from stem cuttings: Cut a 4–6 inch stem section with at least one node Remove lower leaves Place in water or moist perlite Roots develop in 2–4 weeks Transfer to soil once roots are 1–2 inches long Rex Begonias can also be propagated from leaf cuttings — lay a leaf on moist soil with small cuts along the veins, and new plantlets emerge at each cut. Popular Begonia Varieties at Divine Roots We specialize in Angel Wing Begonias — with 16+ unique varieties, it's our signature collection. Some favorites: Begonia Maculata — The iconic polka-dot begonia with silver-spotted leaves and red undersides Begonia Benigo Pink — Cascading pink flower clusters with spotted foliage Begonia My Special Angel — Compact wings with brilliant spotting patterns 👉 Shop All Angel Wing Begonias · Shop Begonia Maculata Common Problems Powdery Mildew White powdery coating on leaves. Caused by poor air circulation and wet foliage. Improve ventilation, avoid misting, and treat with fungicide if needed. Leaf Drop Usually caused by overwatering, cold drafts, or sudden changes in environment. Check soil moisture and relocate if near a vent or drafty window. Leggy Growth Insufficient light. Move to a brighter location and prune back leggy stems — Begonias respond well to pruning and branch at the cut points. Yellowing Leaves Overwatering or poor drainage. Check roots for rot, improve drainage, and adjust watering frequency. Frequently Asked Questions Are Begonias easy to grow? Most Begonias are easy to moderate. Angel Wing varieties are among the easiest — they're forgiving of occasional care mistakes and reward you with stunning foliage and flowers. Rex Begonias are slightly more demanding about humidity. Do Begonias need direct sunlight? No. Begonias prefer bright indirect light. Direct sun scorches their leaves. A spot near an east-facing window is ideal. How do I get my Begonia to flower? Provide bright indirect light, feed with a phosphorus-rich fertilizer in spring, and keep the plant slightly pot-bound. Angel Wing Begonias are the most reliable indoor bloomers. Are Begonias safe for pets? Begonias are toxic to cats and dogs, especially the roots and tubers. Keep them on high shelves or choose pet-safe alternatives. How long do Begonias live? With proper care, Begonias can live for many years — cane-type Begonias (including Angel Wings) can thrive for decades. They respond well to pruning, which keeps them compact and vigorous. Discover the beauty of Begonias. Shop our Angel Wing collection — 16+ hand-grown varieties you won't find anywhere else. 🌿 Related Reading Best Indoor Plants for Beginners Best Plants for Office Easy Care Houseplants How to Care for Angel Wing Begonia How to Care for Episcia

How to Care for String of Pearls: The Complete Guide String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus) is one of the most eye-catching trailing succulents you can grow. Its cascading strands of round, bead-like leaves create a living curtain that looks stunning in hanging baskets and on high shelves. While this succulent has a reputation for being temperamental, understanding its desert origins makes care straightforward. Here's everything you need to know. String of Pearls at a Glance Botanical Name Senecio rowleyanus (syn. Curio rowleyanus) Common Names String of Pearls, String of Beads Plant Type Trailing succulent Mature Size 1–3 ft. trailing length Light Bright indirect to some direct Water When soil is completely dry Humidity Low to average (30–50%) Temperature 60–80°F (16–27°C) Soil Fast-draining succulent/cactus mix Toxicity Toxic to pets and children Difficulty Moderate Light Requirements String of Pearls needs more light than most trailing houseplants. In their native South African habitat, they grow along the ground in bright, partially shaded conditions. Bright indirect light — Ideal. A spot near a south- or west-facing window where the plant gets several hours of bright light without harsh midday sun. Some direct morning sun — Beneficial. A couple hours of gentle morning sun (east-facing window) promotes compact growth and healthy pearls. Low light — Not suitable. String of Pearls becomes leggy and sparse in low light, and the pearls shrink and lose their plump round shape. Intense afternoon sun — Can scorch the pearls, leaving them shriveled and brown. Filter strong afternoon light with a sheer curtain. Watering This is where most String of Pearls problems begin. Remember: this is a succulent. Each "pearl" is a tiny water reservoir. Overwatering is far more dangerous than underwatering. How to water: Wait until the soil is completely dry throughout the pot — not just the surface. Then water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom. Let it dry completely again before the next watering. Spring/Summer: Water every 10–14 days Fall/Winter: Every 3–4 weeks (the plant goes semi-dormant) How to check: The pearls themselves tell you — plump, round pearls mean adequate water. Slightly oval or pointed pearls mean the plant is thirsty. Signs of overwatering: Mushy, translucent pearls, yellowing stems, root rot Signs of underwatering: Shriveled, flattened pearls that feel papery Watering tip: Water the soil directly — avoid getting water on the pearls and stems, as trapped moisture can cause rot. Humidity String of Pearls prefers dry to average humidity (30–50%). Unlike tropical plants that crave moisture in the air, this succulent does best in the same dry-ish conditions most homes provide naturally. Don't mist this plant — excess moisture on the pearls promotes rot and fungal issues. Temperature Keep your String of Pearls in 60–80°F (16–27°C). It can handle brief dips to 50°F but doesn't tolerate frost or freezing temperatures. A slight temperature drop at night (down to 55°F) actually promotes healthier growth and can trigger blooming. Soil Fast drainage is essential. Use a dedicated succulent/cactus potting mix, or create your own: 1 part regular potting soil 1 part perlite 1 part coarse sand Always use a pot with drainage holes. Terracotta pots are excellent for String of Pearls because they wick away excess moisture. Fertilizing Growing season (spring–summer): Feed once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to quarter strength, or use a succulent-specific fertilizer Fall/Winter: No fertilizer needed Less is more — over-fertilizing causes leggy, weak growth Propagation String of Pearls propagates easily from stem cuttings: Cut a 4–5 inch strand from a healthy vine Remove the pearls from the bottom inch of stem Let the cutting callous over for 1–2 days Lay the cutting on top of moist succulent soil, pressing the bare stem nodes gently into the surface Mist lightly every few days — don't water heavily Roots develop from the nodes in 2–4 weeks You can also coil a longer strand on top of soil in a pot while still attached to the mother plant, pinning it in place. Once it roots, cut the connection. Common Problems Mushy, Translucent Pearls Overwatering. The pearls absorb too much water and burst from the inside. Reduce watering frequency, check for root rot, and ensure your soil drains quickly. Shriveled, Flat Pearls Underwatering. The plant has depleted its water reserves. Give it a thorough drink and resume a regular watering schedule. The pearls should plump back up within a day or two. Losing Pearls (Falling Off) Often caused by overwatering, root rot, or physical handling. String of Pearls stems are delicate — handle gently. If pearls drop when the soil is moist, check roots for rot. Leggy, Sparse Growth Insufficient light. Move to a brighter location. Trim sparse strands back to encourage new, fuller growth from the base. 👉 Shop String of Pearls · Shop String of Pearls Starter Plant Frequently Asked Questions How often should I water String of Pearls? Water only when the soil is completely dry — typically every 10–14 days in spring/summer and every 3–4 weeks in winter. Watch the pearls themselves: plump and round means hydrated; slightly shriveled means it's time to water. Why is my String of Pearls dying? The most common killer is overwatering, which causes root rot and mushy stems. Check that your soil drains quickly, your pot has drainage holes, and you're letting the soil dry completely between waterings. Too little light is the second most common cause. Can String of Pearls grow in low light? No. String of Pearls needs bright indirect light with some direct sun to maintain its compact, round pearl shape. In low light, it becomes leggy and sparse. If your space is dim, consider a low-light tolerant plant instead. Is String of Pearls toxic to pets? Yes. String of Pearls is toxic to cats and dogs. Keep it in hanging baskets well out of reach, or choose pet-safe alternatives. Ready to grow your own living bead curtain? Shop String of Pearls at Divine Roots — each plant rooted, healthy, and ready to trail beautifully in your home. 🌿 Related Reading Hanging Plants Indoor Best Houseplants for Apartments How to Care for Echeveria How to Care for Sempervivum

How to Care for Calathea: The Complete Guide Calatheas are the show-stoppers of the houseplant world. With intricately patterned leaves that fold up at night and unfurl each morning — earning them the nickname "prayer plants" — these tropical beauties add living art to your home. They have a reputation for being finicky, but with the right knowledge, anyone can grow a stunning Calathea. Here's how. Calathea at a Glance Botanical Name Calathea spp. (now reclassified as Goeppertia) Common Names Calathea, Prayer Plant, Peacock Plant, Zebra Plant Plant Type Evergreen tropical perennial Mature Size 1–3 ft. tall depending on variety Light Low to medium indirect Water When top inch of soil is dry (keep consistently moist) Humidity 60–80% (minimum 50%) Temperature 65–80°F (18–27°C) Soil Rich, moisture-retentive, well-draining Toxicity Non-toxic to cats and dogs Difficulty Moderate Light Requirements Calatheas are forest-floor dwellers, naturally adapted to dappled shade beneath dense tropical canopy. This makes them excellent low-to-medium light houseplants — but it also means they're more sensitive to light extremes than many common houseplants. Medium indirect light — The ideal sweet spot. Place near a north- or east-facing window, or a few feet back from a brighter window with a sheer curtain. Low light — Calatheas handle low light quite well. Growth slows, but the plant maintains its stunning leaf patterns. They make beautiful bedroom plants. Bright indirect light — Acceptable if filtered, but watch for signs of stress (leaf curling, fading patterns). Direct sunlight — Absolutely avoid. Even brief direct sun can bleach patterns and scorch leaves permanently. Calathea leaves are thin and delicate — they lack the waxy coating that protects plants like Pothos from sun damage. Night-time magic: Calatheas are nyctinastic — their leaves fold upward at dusk and unfurl at dawn, following a circadian rhythm. You'll hear them gently rustling as they move. This fascinating behavior is one reason plant lovers become so attached to their Calatheas. Watering Watering is where Calathea care diverges from most beginner houseplants. While Pothos and Philodendron prefer to dry out between waterings, Calatheas want their soil to stay consistently moist — but never waterlogged. Think of a wrung-out sponge: damp, not dripping. How to water: Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Water evenly around the pot until it drains from the bottom. Never let the soil completely dry out, but also never let the pot sit in standing water. Spring/Summer: Water every 5–7 days, checking soil frequently Fall/Winter: Every 7–10 days (growth slows, so soil dries more slowly) Signs of underwatering: Curling leaves, crispy brown edges, leaves that won't unfurl in the morning Signs of overwatering: Yellow leaves, limp stems, mushy base, root rot Critical water quality tip: Calatheas are very sensitive to minerals in tap water — fluoride, chlorine, and hard-water minerals cause brown tips and edges. Use filtered water, distilled water, or rainwater for best results. If you must use tap water, let it sit out overnight to off-gas chlorine (though this doesn't remove fluoride). Humidity This is the make-or-break factor for Calathea care. These plants evolved in tropical rainforests with 60–80% humidity — far higher than most homes provide. Insufficient humidity is the number-one reason Calatheas develop crispy brown edges. How to provide adequate humidity: Humidifier — The most reliable method. A small cool-mist humidifier near your Calathea makes the biggest difference. Aim for 60%+ humidity in the plant's immediate area. Bathroom placement — If your bathroom has a window for light, it's often the best room for Calatheas. Daily showers naturally raise humidity. Pebble tray — Set the pot on a tray of pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it raises humidity around the plant. Grouping — Cluster Calatheas with other humidity-loving plants. Each plant transpires moisture, creating a shared humidity pocket. Terrariums/glass cloches — For smaller Calatheas, enclosed or semi-enclosed glass environments maintain excellent humidity. Misting alone isn't enough for Calatheas. It provides a temporary spike but doesn't sustain the consistent humidity these plants crave. If you only do one thing, invest in a humidifier. Temperature Calatheas prefer stable warmth — 65–80°F (18–27°C). They're particularly sensitive to temperature fluctuations and cold drafts. Keep away from cold windows, exterior doors, and air conditioning vents Avoid placing on windowsills during winter (glass gets cold at night) Temperatures below 60°F (15°C) cause leaf curling and stunted growth Never expose to temperatures below 55°F (13°C) — cold damage is often irreversible Soil Calatheas need soil that stays moist but not soggy. This means good water retention combined with adequate drainage — a trickier balance than most houseplants require. Recommended soil mix: 2 parts peat moss or coco coir (moisture retention) 1 part perlite (drainage and aeration) 1 part compost or worm castings (nutrients) Optional: a small amount of orchid bark for additional aeration Avoid soil mixes heavy in bark or that drain too rapidly — Calatheas don't want their roots drying out between waterings. Repot every 1–2 years in spring. Fertilizing Growing season (spring–summer): Feed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer at quarter to half strength. Calatheas have sensitive roots — less is more. Fall/Winter: Stop fertilizing entirely Organic options: Worm castings mixed into the soil or compost tea provide gentle, slow-release nutrition that won't burn sensitive roots Warning signs of over-fertilizing: Brown leaf tips, salt crust on soil, stunted new growth Propagation Calatheas are propagated by division during repotting — they cannot be propagated from leaf or stem cuttings like vining plants. How to Divide a Calathea Wait until spring, when the plant is entering its active growth phase Water the plant thoroughly the day before dividing (moist roots are easier to separate) Remove from the pot and gently shake away excess soil Identify natural clusters — groups of stems with their own root systems Gently pull or cut apart, ensuring each division has at least 2–3 stems and healthy roots Plant each division in a fresh pot with moist potting mix Provide extra humidity and warmth while new roots establish (2–4 weeks) Avoid fertilizing for 6 weeks after division Division can be stressful for Calatheas, so only divide healthy, established plants with plenty of stems to separate. Common Problems Crispy Brown Edges The single most common Calathea issue. Almost always caused by insufficient humidity, water quality issues, or both. Increase humidity (ideally with a humidifier), switch to filtered or distilled water, and trim damaged leaf edges with clean scissors. Curling Leaves Leaves that stay curled during the day signal underwatering, low humidity, or cold stress. Check soil moisture, humidity levels, and temperature. If the soil is dry, water immediately and boost humidity. Fading Leaf Patterns Calathea patterns fade in too much light or too little. Ironically, both extremes produce similar results. Assess your lighting — if the plant is in strong light, move it back; if in very deep shade, move it closer to gentle indirect light. Yellowing Leaves Usually overwatering or poor drainage. Check that soil isn't staying waterlogged and that the pot has adequate drainage holes. Root rot from overwatering is common in Calatheas because they need moisture — people often overcompensate. Spider Mites Calatheas grown in dry conditions are magnets for spider mites. Check undersides of leaves for fine webbing and tiny moving dots. Treat with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or by wiping leaves with a damp cloth. Keeping humidity high naturally discourages spider mites. Why Calatheas Are Perfect for Pet-Friendly Homes One of Calathea's best features — apart from its stunning beauty — is that it's completely non-toxic to cats and dogs. This makes it one of the best choices for pet-friendly households that want a dramatic, decorative plant without the toxicity concerns of Philodendron, Pothos, or Peace Lily. 👉 Shop Calathea Freddie · Shop Calathea Freddie Starter Plant Frequently Asked Questions Are Calatheas hard to care for? Calatheas are moderately challenging compared to beginner plants like Pothos or Snake Plant. Their main demands are consistent moisture, high humidity, and filtered water. If you can provide these three things, Calatheas aren't difficult — they're just more specific about their preferences. Our beginner plant guide can help you decide if you're ready. Why are my Calathea's leaves curling? Curling leaves typically indicate underwatering, low humidity, or cold stress. Check soil moisture first — if it's dry, water immediately. Ensure humidity is above 50% (60%+ is ideal). Also check for cold drafts or temperatures below 65°F, which can cause leaf curling. Do Calatheas need a humidifier? A humidifier isn't strictly required, but it makes a dramatic difference — especially in dry climates or heated homes during winter. Calatheas thrive at 60–80% humidity. Without supplemental humidity in most homes (which typically run 30–50%), you'll likely see brown leaf edges. Can I use tap water for Calathea? Calatheas are sensitive to fluoride, chlorine, and mineral buildup in tap water. Filtered water, distilled water, or collected rainwater is strongly recommended. If you notice persistent brown leaf tips despite good humidity, switching your water source often solves the problem immediately. Why do Calathea leaves move at night? Calatheas are nyctinastic — their leaves fold upward at night and lower in the morning, following a light-driven circadian rhythm. This movement is controlled by a small joint (pulvinus) at the base of each leaf. The exact biological purpose isn't fully understood, but scientists believe it may help the plant capture light more efficiently or shed water from leaf surfaces. Ready for the beauty of Calathea? Shop our Calathea Freddie — hand-selected, carefully grown, and shipped to arrive healthy. Let your home come alive with the prayer plant's gentle daily rhythm. 🌿 Related Reading Best Houseplants for Apartments How to Care for Peace Lily How to Care for Chinese Evergreen

How to Care for Peace Lily: The Complete Guide Few houseplants combine elegance, simplicity, and resilience quite like the Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum). With its glossy dark green foliage and graceful white blooms, the Peace Lily brings a sense of calm to any room — and it thrives in conditions that would challenge most flowering plants. Here's how to give your Peace Lily the care it deserves. Peace Lily at a Glance Botanical Name Spathiphyllum spp. Common Names Peace Lily, Spath, White Sails Plant Type Evergreen tropical perennial Mature Size 1–4 ft. tall depending on variety Light Low to medium indirect Water When top inch of soil is dry (or when leaves begin to droop) Humidity 50–70% (tolerates 40%) Temperature 65–80°F (18–27°C) Soil Rich, well-draining potting mix Toxicity Mildly toxic to pets and children Difficulty Beginner-friendly Light Requirements Peace Lilies are among the best low-light indoor plants available. In their native tropical habitats, they grow on the forest floor under dense canopy shade — so they're naturally equipped for dim indoor conditions. Low to medium indirect light — The ideal range. Peace Lilies actually prefer less light than most houseplants. This makes them perfect for north-facing rooms, bathrooms with small windows, and interior offices. Bright indirect light — Produces more flowers but can cause leaves to yellow if too intense. Keep away from direct window light. Direct sunlight — Avoid entirely. Direct sun scorches the delicate leaves, causing permanent brown spots and bleached patches. Flowering tip: If your Peace Lily is healthy but not blooming, try giving it slightly more light. A spot with consistent, gentle indirect light often triggers flower production. Peace Lilies that don't bloom are usually in conditions that are too dark — they'll survive but won't flower. Watering The Peace Lily is the ultimate "communication plant." When it's thirsty, it tells you — dramatically. The entire plant droops, leaves wilting downward like a fainting Victorian. Water it, and within hours it perks right back up as if nothing happened. This built-in feedback system makes it one of the best plants for learning to read your plants' needs. How to water: Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, or when you notice the very earliest signs of drooping. Water thoroughly until it flows from the drainage holes, then let the pot drain completely. Spring/Summer: Water roughly every 5–7 days Fall/Winter: Every 7–10 days Underwatered: Dramatic wilting (recovers quickly after watering) Overwatered: Yellow leaves, black mushy roots, soil that stays wet for days Important: While Peace Lilies forgive the occasional drooping episode, don't make a habit of letting them fully wilt before watering. Repeated severe drooping stresses the plant and can eventually cause leaf tip browning and reduced flowering. Humidity Peace Lilies are tropical plants that naturally thrive in humid environments. While they tolerate average household humidity (40–50%), they'll look their absolute best at 50–70% humidity. Signs your Peace Lily wants more humidity: Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges Leaves that look dull rather than glossy Boost humidity by: Running a humidifier nearby Placing on a pebble tray with water Grouping with other plants Keeping in a bathroom with natural light Peace Lilies are one of the best plants for bedrooms and bathrooms — they thrive in the naturally higher humidity these rooms provide. Temperature Keep your Peace Lily in 65–80°F (18–27°C). These tropical plants have zero tolerance for cold. Temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can cause cold damage, and they should never be exposed to frost. Avoid placing Peace Lilies near: Exterior doors that let in cold drafts Air conditioning vents (cold air dries out foliage) Uninsulated windows during winter Soil Peace Lilies prefer a rich, moisture-retentive but well-draining potting mix. They like soil that stays lightly moist (not wet). A good mix: 2 parts peat moss or coco coir 1 part perlite 1 part compost or worm castings Peace Lilies don't need frequent repotting — every 2–3 years is sufficient. They actually bloom better when slightly root-bound. When you do repot, go up only one pot size. Our repotting guide walks you through the process step by step. Fertilizing Growing season (spring–summer): Feed every 6–8 weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength. Peace Lilies are light feeders — over-fertilizing causes more problems than under-fertilizing Fall/Winter: Skip fertilizing entirely Bloom-boosting tip: Use a fertilizer slightly higher in phosphorus (the middle number, e.g., 10-30-20) during spring to encourage flowering Propagation Unlike vining plants that propagate from stem cuttings, Peace Lilies are propagated by division — separating the root system into multiple plants during repotting. How to Divide a Peace Lily Remove the Peace Lily from its pot Gently shake or rinse away soil from the roots Look for natural divisions — separate clusters of leaves with their own root systems Gently pull or cut the root mass apart, ensuring each division has at least 2–3 leaves and a healthy root cluster Plant each division in its own pot with fresh, moist potting mix Water lightly and keep in a warm, humid spot with indirect light Avoid fertilizing for 4–6 weeks while the new plants establish The best time to divide is during spring repotting when the plant is entering its active growth phase. Common Problems Brown Leaf Tips The most common Peace Lily complaint. Causes include low humidity, inconsistent watering, fluoride in tap water, or over-fertilizing. Trim brown tips with clean scissors (cut at an angle for a natural look), then address the underlying cause. Switching to filtered water often solves persistent browning. Yellow Leaves Overwatering is the usual culprit. Check that your pot has drainage holes and that you're allowing the top inch of soil to dry between waterings. Old leaves occasionally yellow naturally — this is normal. No Flowers Peace Lilies need sufficient light, maturity, and a slight pot-bound condition to bloom. Move to a brighter location (still indirect), ensure the plant is established (at least 1 year in its pot), and try a phosphorus-boosted fertilizer in spring. Green Flowers Peace Lily spathes (the white "flowers") naturally turn green as they age. This is normal. Cut spent spathes at the base of their stem to redirect the plant's energy into producing new blooms. Drooping If your Peace Lily is drooping, check the soil. If it's dry, water immediately — the plant will recover within hours. If the soil is wet and the plant is still drooping, you may have root rot. Unpot, inspect roots, trim away any black or mushy roots, and repot in fresh soil. Peace Lily & Air Purification Peace Lilies are among the top performers in NASA's landmark Clean Air Study, effectively removing benzene, formaldehyde, trichloroethylene, ammonia, and xylene from indoor air. They're one of the most effective air-purifying houseplants available — and unlike most air-purifying plants, they do this in low light conditions where other plants can't function. 👉 Shop Peace Lily · Shop Peace Lily Starter Plant Frequently Asked Questions How often should I water a Peace Lily? Water when the top inch of soil feels dry — roughly every 5–7 days in warm months and every 7–10 days in winter. Peace Lilies communicate clearly: they droop dramatically when thirsty and perk back up within hours of watering. The best approach is to learn your plant's visual cues rather than following a rigid schedule. Why is my Peace Lily not flowering? The three most common reasons: not enough light (move to a brighter indirect spot), the plant is too young (Peace Lilies need to be mature, usually 1+ years), or the pot is too large (they bloom better when slightly root-bound). A phosphorus-rich fertilizer in spring can also encourage blooming. Are Peace Lilies toxic to pets? Peace Lilies contain calcium oxalate crystals and are mildly toxic to cats and dogs. Ingestion causes oral irritation, drooling, and difficulty swallowing. Keep Peace Lilies out of reach of pets, or opt for pet-safe houseplants like Spider Plants or Calathea. Can Peace Lilies grow in just water? Yes, Peace Lilies can grow hydroponically. Place the plant in a glass container with the roots submerged in water. Use a support (like glass beads or stones) to hold the plant upright. Change the water every 1–2 weeks and add a small amount of liquid fertilizer monthly. How long do Peace Lily flowers last? Individual Peace Lily blooms (spathes) last about 4–6 weeks before gradually turning green and fading. A healthy, well-lit Peace Lily can produce blooms throughout spring and summer, and occasionally in fall. Cut spent flowers at the base of the stem to encourage new blooms. Bring peaceful elegance home. Shop our Peace Lilies — each one grown with purpose, shipped with care, and ready to bring life to the quietest corners of your home. 🌿 Related Reading Easy Care Houseplants How to Care for Calathea How to Care for Chinese Evergreen

How to Care for Philodendron: The Complete Guide The name Philodendron comes from the Greek words "philo" (love) and "dendron" (tree) — literally, "tree of love." It's fitting: these gorgeous, heart-shaped-leaf plants have a way of making you fall in love with indoor gardening. From the classic Heartleaf to the velvety Micans, Philodendrons are among the easiest and most rewarding houseplants to grow. Philodendron at a Glance Botanical Name Philodendron spp. Common Names Philodendron, Heartleaf Philodendron, Sweetheart Plant Plant Type Evergreen tropical (vining or self-heading) Mature Size Varies by species (trailing types: 4–10 ft. indoors) Light Medium to bright indirect Water When top 1–2 inches of soil are dry Humidity 50–70% (tolerates 40%) Temperature 65–80°F (18–27°C) Soil Rich, well-draining aroid mix Toxicity Toxic to pets and children Difficulty Beginner-friendly Light Requirements Philodendrons are naturally understory plants, growing beneath the canopies of tropical forests. This means they're superbly adapted to filtered, indirect light — and it's one reason they make such excellent indoor plants. Bright indirect light — The sweet spot. Produces the fastest growth, largest leaves, and most vivid coloring (especially for variegated types like Brasil) Medium light — Still performs well. Growth is moderate, leaves may be slightly smaller Low light — Tolerates it better than most houseplants, making Philodendron one of the best low-light indoor plants. However, growth slows considerably and variegation may fade Direct sun — Avoid. Philodendron leaves burn easily in direct sunlight, developing yellow or brown scorched patches Watering Philodendrons like their soil to stay lightly moist but never soggy. The key is balance — consistent moisture without waterlogging. How to water: Check the top 1–2 inches of soil with your finger. When dry, water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom. Let the pot drain completely — never leave Philodendrons sitting in a saucer of water. Spring/Summer: Water every 7–10 days Fall/Winter: Every 10–14 days Signs of underwatering: Drooping, curling leaves that perk up after watering Signs of overwatering: Yellowing leaves (especially at the base), mushy stems, foul-smelling soil Humidity As tropical plants, Philodendrons appreciate humidity between 50–70%. However, most varieties adapt well to average household humidity (40–50%) without issue. If you want to boost humidity for optimal growth: Group your Philodendrons with other tropical plants Use a small humidifier nearby during dry winter months Place on a pebble tray with water Mist occasionally (though this provides only temporary benefit) Velvet-leaved varieties like Philodendron Micans are slightly more humidity-sensitive than glossy-leaved types. If you grow Micans, a humidifier makes a noticeable difference in leaf texture and sheen. Temperature Keep Philodendrons in 65–80°F (18–27°C) — standard indoor temperatures. They dislike temperatures below 55°F (13°C) and can be permanently damaged by frost or cold drafts. Avoid placing Philodendrons near exterior doors in winter, heating/cooling vents, or single-pane windows that get cold overnight. Soil Philodendrons thrive in a rich, well-draining aroid mix. They need soil that retains some moisture but allows air to reach the roots. Here's a reliable mix: 2 parts peat moss or coco coir 1 part perlite 1 part orchid bark Optional: a handful of worm castings for nutrition Avoid heavy, clay-like soils that compact and hold too much water. Philodendron roots need oxygen — compacted soil leads to root rot. Repot every 1–2 years into a pot one size larger. Fertilizing Growing season (spring–summer): Feed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer (10-10-10 or 20-20-20) diluted to half strength Fall/Winter: Reduce to every 6–8 weeks or stop entirely Philodendrons are moderate feeders — don't over-fertilize, as salt buildup causes brown leaf edges Propagation Vining Philodendrons (Cordatum, Brasil, Micans) are exceptionally easy to propagate from stem cuttings: Stem Cutting in Water Cut a 4–6 inch section of stem with at least 2–3 nodes (the bumpy joints where leaves emerge) Remove leaves from the bottom 1–2 nodes Place in a jar of water, submerging the nodes Set in bright indirect light Change water weekly Roots appear in 1–3 weeks Transplant to soil when roots are 2–3 inches long Stem Cutting in Soil Take the same cutting as above Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional) Plant in moist potting mix, burying 1–2 nodes below the soil line Keep soil lightly moist and provide humidity (a clear plastic bag over the pot works) Roots establish in 2–4 weeks Popular Philodendron Varieties at Divine Roots Philodendron Brasil — Heart-shaped leaves with stunning green and gold variegation. A fast-growing trailer that brightens any shelf or hanging basket. Philodendron Cordatum — The classic "Heartleaf Philodendron" with deep green, perfectly heart-shaped leaves. The variety that the Divine Roots brand was inspired by. Philodendron Micans — Velvety, iridescent leaves that shimmer bronze, green, and purple in the light. A truly special plant. Philodendron Malay Gold (Lemon Lime) — Neon chartreuse leaves that practically glow. A real showstopper. 👉 Shop Philodendron Brasil · Shop Philodendron Cordatum · Shop Philodendron Micans · Shop Philodendron Malay Gold Common Problems Yellow Leaves Nearly always caused by overwatering. Check that soil drainage is adequate, your pot has drainage holes, and you're allowing the top layer to dry between waterings. Occasional yellowing of older, lower leaves is normal and not a cause for concern. Leggy Growth Long stretches of bare stem between leaves mean the plant needs more light. Move it to a brighter location and prune leggy vines — the plant will respond by branching at the cut points, creating fuller growth. Leaf Curling Leaves that curl inward are usually thirsty or stressed by low humidity. Water the plant and consider boosting ambient humidity. Brown Edges Typically caused by low humidity, inconsistent watering, or fertilizer salt buildup. Increase humidity, maintain a consistent watering routine, and flush soil periodically with clean water. Pests Mealybugs, spider mites, and aphids can occasionally trouble Philodendrons. Inspect leaves regularly (especially undersides), wipe with a damp cloth, and treat infestations with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Frequently Asked Questions Are Philodendrons toxic to pets? Yes. All Philodendron species contain calcium oxalate crystals that are toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. Symptoms include mouth irritation, excessive drooling, and vomiting. Keep Philodendrons out of reach of pets, or choose pet-safe houseplants like Spider Plants and Calathea instead. What's the difference between Pothos and Philodendron? They look similar but are different plants. Pothos leaves are typically thicker and waxier, with more prominent aerial roots. Philodendron leaves are thinner, more heart-shaped, and may have a slight velvety texture. Philodendron stems also have a visible sheath (cataphyll) where new leaves emerge. How fast do Philodendrons grow? In good conditions (bright indirect light, proper watering, regular fertilizing), trailing Philodendrons can grow 12–24 inches per year. Growth slows significantly in low light or during winter months. Can I grow Philodendron in water? Yes, Philodendrons grow well in water indefinitely. Change the water every 1–2 weeks and add liquid fertilizer monthly. Water-grown Philodendrons produce smaller leaves than soil-grown plants but make beautiful, low-maintenance displays in glass vases. How do I make my Philodendron bushier? Regular pruning is the key to a bushy Philodendron. Cut vines back to just above a node (leaf joint), and the plant will produce new branches at the cut point. You can also place multiple cuttings in the same pot for instant fullness. Find your perfect Philodendron at Divine Roots. From classic Heartleaf to velvety Micans, each plant is grown with love and shipped with care — because every good thing starts with strong roots. 🌿 Related Reading Easy Care Houseplants Hanging Plants Indoor Air Purifying Indoor Plants How to Care for Peace Lily How to Care for Calathea