Plant Care

How to Repot a Houseplant: Step-by-Step Guide for Every Skill Level Repotting is one of those plant care tasks that sounds intimidating — until you actually do it. The truth is, it's one of the simplest and most rewarding things you can do for your houseplants. A fresh pot with fresh soil gives your plant room to grow, better drainage, and a reset on nutrients. At Divine Roots Botanicals, we've repotted thousands of plants, and in this guide we'll share everything we've learned — when to repot, how to do it step by step, what mistakes to avoid, and how to help your plant thrive afterward. Why Repotting Matters Plants don't live in nature with the same handful of soil forever. Rain washes in nutrients, roots spread freely, and organic matter constantly breaks down. In a pot, your plant is living in a closed system with finite resources. Over time, several things happen: Roots outgrow the pot. A root-bound plant can't absorb water or nutrients efficiently, leading to stunted growth, wilting, and stress. Soil breaks down. Potting mix compacts over time, losing its aeration and drainage. Compacted soil holds too much water around the roots, which can lead to root rot. Nutrients deplete. Even with regular fertilizing, soil minerals become exhausted over 1–2 years. Fresh potting mix replenishes micronutrients that fertilizer alone can't replace. Salt and mineral buildup. Fertilizer salts and minerals from tap water accumulate in old soil, potentially burning roots and causing brown leaf tips. Regular repotting — typically every 12–24 months — keeps your plants in peak condition and prevents many of the most common problems that kill houseplants. How to Tell When Your Plant Needs Repotting Not every plant needs repotting on the same schedule. Instead of following a rigid calendar, watch for these telltale signs: Definite Signs — Repot Soon Roots growing out of drainage holes. This is the most obvious sign. If roots are escaping the bottom of the pot, the plant has outgrown its home. Roots circling the surface. When you see a dense mat of roots on top of the soil or pressing against the sides of the pot, the plant is root-bound. Water runs straight through. If water pours through the drainage hole almost immediately without soaking into the soil, the root mass is so dense that there's barely any soil left to hold moisture. The plant tips over. A top-heavy plant in a too-small pot is telling you it needs a bigger, more stable base. Cracked or bulging pot. Roots are powerful. If they're literally breaking the container, it's past time to repot. Subtle Signs — Consider Repotting Slowed or stopped growth during the growing season, despite adequate light and water Yellowing leaves that aren't explained by overwatering, underwatering, or pests The plant dries out unusually fast — needing water every day or two when it used to go a week White crust on the soil surface — mineral and salt deposits from old soil and hard water It's been 2+ years since the last repot, even if the plant looks fine When NOT to Repot Sometimes the best move is to leave the plant alone: During winter. Most houseplants are dormant in fall and winter. Repotting during dormancy can shock the plant. Wait until spring, when growth resumes. When it's blooming. Don't disturb a plant that's actively flowering. Wait until the blooms fade. Right after buying. A newly purchased plant is already stressed from its journey. Let it acclimate to your home for 2–4 weeks before repotting, unless it's visibly root-bound or in terrible soil. If it's sick or pest-infested. Treat the pest problem first. Repotting a weakened plant adds stress on top of stress. What You'll Need Gather everything before you start. Having supplies ready makes the process smoother and less stressful for both you and the plant. New pot: 1–2 inches larger in diameter than the current pot. Must have drainage holes. (Going bigger than 2 inches creates too much excess soil that stays wet and invites root rot.) Fresh potting mix: Use a mix appropriate for your plant type. See our guide to the best soil for indoor plants for detailed recommendations. Trowel or large spoon: For scooping soil. Watering can: You'll water immediately after repotting. Scissors or pruning shears: For trimming dead or damaged roots. Newspaper, tarp, or old towel: To protect your workspace. Repotting gets messy. Optional: Gloves, a chopstick or pencil (for loosening roots), a spray bottle (for moisture-loving plants). How to Repot a Houseplant: Step by Step Follow these steps for a smooth, stress-free repotting experience. This process works for the vast majority of houseplants — from philodendrons and pothos to fittonias and begonias. Step 1: Water the Day Before Water your plant thoroughly the day before you plan to repot. Moist soil slides out of the pot much more easily than bone-dry soil, and hydrated roots are more flexible and less likely to snap. Don't repot a plant that's been sitting in dry soil for weeks — the roots will be brittle and fragile. Step 2: Prepare the New Pot If you're reusing an old pot, scrub it clean with hot water and a brush to remove any salt deposits or potential pathogens. For the new pot, add a layer of fresh potting mix to the bottom — enough so that when you set the plant inside, the top of the root ball sits about ½ to 1 inch below the rim of the pot. You want space for watering. Pro tip: Don't put rocks or gravel at the bottom of the pot "for drainage." This is a persistent gardening myth. Gravel actually creates a perched water table that keeps the bottom of the soil wetter than it would be without it. Just use a pot with drainage holes and good potting mix. Step 3: Remove the Plant From Its Current Pot Turn the pot upside down (or at an angle for large plants) and gently slide the plant out. If it's stuck: Squeeze the sides of a plastic pot to loosen the root ball Run a butter knife or thin trowel around the inside edge of the pot Tap the bottom of the pot firmly If roots are growing out of the drainage holes, carefully snip them to free the plant Never yank a plant out by its stem. If it truly won't budge, you may need to cut or break the old pot. Step 4: Inspect and Loosen the Roots This is the most important step that most guides rush through. Once the plant is out, examine the root ball: Healthy roots are firm and white, cream, or tan-colored. Unhealthy roots are mushy, dark brown or black, and may smell bad — these are signs of root rot. Trim away any rotting roots with clean scissors. Circling roots — if the roots are growing in tight circles around the shape of the old pot, gently tease them apart with your fingers. You can also use a chopstick to loosen the outer layer. If they're extremely matted, score the root ball with a clean knife — making 3–4 shallow vertical cuts around the sides. This sounds brutal but it stimulates new outward root growth. Shake off about one-third of the old soil. You don't need to remove all of it — just enough to loosen the roots and make room for fresh mix. Step 5: Place the Plant in the New Pot Set the plant on top of the base layer of soil in the new pot. Check the depth: the top of the root ball should sit ½ to 1 inch below the rim. Adjust the base layer if needed — add more soil to raise the plant or remove some to lower it. Important: Don't bury the stem deeper than it was in the original pot. Burying the stem can cause stem rot and suffocate the crown of the plant. The soil line should be at the same level it was before. Step 6: Fill in With Fresh Soil Hold the plant upright and fill in around the root ball with fresh potting mix. Use your fingers or a trowel to gently press the soil down, eliminating large air pockets — but don't pack it tightly. The goal is firm-but-fluffy soil that allows air and water to flow through. Leave about ½ inch of space between the soil surface and the rim of the pot. This "watering reservoir" prevents water from overflowing when you irrigate. Step 7: Water Thoroughly Give the newly repotted plant a deep, thorough watering. Water slowly until it drains from the bottom of the pot. This settles the soil around the roots and eliminates air gaps. If the soil level drops after watering (it usually does), top it off with a bit more mix. Empty the saucer after 15–20 minutes so the pot isn't sitting in standing water. Step 8: Post-Repotting Care For the first 1–2 weeks after repotting, give your plant a little extra TLC: Place in indirect light. Even if your plant normally likes bright light, keep it in a slightly shadier spot for a few days to reduce stress while the roots establish. Don't fertilize. Fresh potting mix contains nutrients. Fertilizing right after repotting can burn tender new roots. Wait 4–6 weeks. Watch for wilting. Some temporary drooping is normal — the roots were just disturbed. Keep the soil lightly moist (not soggy) and the plant should perk up within a few days. Mist humidity-loving plants. Plants like fittonias, calatheas, and ferns appreciate extra humidity after repotting to reduce transplant shock. Special Repotting Scenarios Repotting Succulents and Cacti Succulents and cacti follow the same basic steps, with a few key differences: Use a fast-draining cactus/succulent mix (or add extra perlite to regular potting mix) Don't water before repotting — the opposite of most plants. Let the soil dry out first so roots aren't wet during handling. After repotting, wait 3–7 days before the first watering. This allows any broken roots to callus over, preventing rot. Use thick gloves or folded newspaper to handle spiny cacti Read our succulent watering guide for post-repotting care specifics. Repotting Large or Heavy Plants For floor-sized plants in pots 12 inches or larger: Lay the pot on its side and slide the plant out — don't try to lift it from above If the plant is truly too large to repot, top-dress instead: scrape off the top 2–3 inches of old soil and replace with fresh potting mix. This refreshes nutrients without disturbing the roots. Consider using a pot with wheels or a rolling plant stand for easy future maintenance Repotting Root-Bound Plants Severely root-bound plants may have a solid mass of circling roots with almost no soil left. For these: Soak the root ball in lukewarm water for 15–20 minutes to soften the roots Gently work the roots apart with your fingers, starting from the bottom Don't worry about breaking some roots — it's inevitable with badly root-bound plants, and it actually encourages new growth If the plant has multiple stems or rosettes, this is a great opportunity to divide and propagate Refreshing Soil Without Upsizing Sometimes your plant is in the right size pot but the soil is exhausted. In this case, you can repot into the same pot: Remove the plant and shake off as much old soil as possible Clean the pot thoroughly Add fresh potting mix and replant at the same depth This is especially useful for plants you don't want to grow larger — like a small desk plant that's already the perfect size Choosing the Right Pot The pot material matters more than most people realize: Material Pros Cons Best For Terracotta Porous, breathable, affordable Heavy, dries out fast, breaks Succulents, cacti, plants prone to overwatering Ceramic (glazed) Attractive, retains moisture Heavy, less breathable Tropical plants that like consistent moisture Plastic Lightweight, retains moisture, cheap Not breathable, less aesthetic Ferns, calatheas, plants that hate drying out Concrete/Stone Heavy, stable, modern look Very heavy, can leach lime Large floor plants, outdoor plants Fabric (grow bags) Excellent drainage, air-prunes roots Not decorative, dries fast Propagation, temporary growing, plant nurseries The one non-negotiable rule: Whatever material you choose, it must have drainage holes. No exceptions. Pots without drainage are decorative covers only — put your plant in a plastic nursery pot inside the decorative pot, and remove it when watering. The Best Time to Repot Spring is ideal. Most houseplants begin their active growth period in March through May as daylight increases. Repotting in spring gives the plant an entire growing season to establish roots in its new pot and recover from the disturbance. Early summer works too. If you miss the spring window, early summer is still fine — just avoid the hottest weeks, which can compound transplant stress. Avoid fall and winter. Plants are slowing down and entering dormancy. Disturbing roots when the plant can't actively grow leads to prolonged stress and a higher risk of root rot. Emergency exception: If your plant is showing signs of root rot, severely root-bound growth, or pest-infested soil, repot immediately regardless of the season. A sick plant needs intervention more than it needs to wait for spring. Your Plant Will Thank You Repotting is one of the highest-impact, lowest-cost things you can do for your houseplants. A $3 bag of potting mix and 10 minutes of work can transform a struggling plant into a vigorous one. Don't overthink it — if your plant shows the signs we described, grab a pot one size up, get your hands dirty, and give your green friend the fresh start it deserves. Need the perfect plant to practice on? Browse our Easy Care Plants collection for forgiving, beginner-friendly varieties. Or check out our best sellers to see what's thriving in homes across the country. Every plant ships from our greenhouse with healthy roots, ready for its first home — or its next pot upgrade.

Best Low Light Houseplants: 15 Plants That Thrive in Shade Not every home is blessed with floor-to-ceiling windows and sun-drenched sills. If your apartment, office, or bedroom gets limited natural light, you might think indoor gardening isn't in the cards. Think again. Plenty of gorgeous houseplants not only tolerate low light — they actually prefer it. At Divine Roots Botanicals, we grow and ship dozens of varieties that thrive in shadier conditions. In this guide, we'll walk you through the 15 best low light houseplants, explain what "low light" really means, and share care tips to keep your shade-loving plants lush and happy. What Does "Low Light" Actually Mean? Before we dive in, let's clear up one of the most common misconceptions in indoor gardening: "low light" does not mean "no light." Every living plant needs some light to photosynthesize. When plant experts say low light, they generally mean: North-facing windows — indirect light with no direct sun exposure Rooms with east-facing windows — gentle morning light that fades by midday Interior rooms — several feet away from the nearest window, where you can still comfortably read a book during the day Offices with fluorescent lighting — artificial light can sustain many low-light plants If a room is so dark that you'd need to turn on a lamp to read at noon, that's probably too dark for even the toughest plants. But if you have any ambient natural light — even filtered through curtains or bouncing off walls — the plants on this list will do just fine. A quick test: hold your hand a foot above a surface where you want to place a plant. If you can see a soft, faint shadow, you have enough light for the plants below. No shadow at all? Consider adding a grow light to supplement. The 15 Best Low Light Houseplants 1. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) If there were a hall of fame for low-light houseplants, pothos would be the first inductee. This trailing vine tolerates neglect like a champ and will happily drape from a bookshelf in a dim corner. The heart-shaped leaves come in a range of varieties — golden, marble queen, neon, and jade — and all of them adapt remarkably well to low light conditions. Care tip: In low light, pothos grows more slowly and the variegated varieties may produce more solid-green leaves (the plant compensates by maximizing chlorophyll). Water when the top inch of soil is dry. If you're unsure whether you're overwatering or underwatering, pothos will tell you — droopy leaves mean it's thirsty, yellow leaves mean you're giving too much. Best for: Shelves, hanging baskets, trailing along a mantle in north-facing rooms. 2. Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) The snake plant — also called mother-in-law's tongue — is practically indestructible. Its stiff, upright leaves grow in dramatic sword-like shapes with striking green-and-yellow banding. Snake plants tolerate everything from bright indirect light to deep shade, and they only need watering every 2–4 weeks in low light because they store water in their thick leaves. Care tip: Overwatering is the #1 killer of snake plants. In a low-light spot, the soil dries out very slowly. Let it go completely dry between waterings. If you notice mushy stems or root rot, you're watering too frequently. Best for: Bedrooms (they release oxygen at night), hallways, bathrooms, and offices. Browse our bedroom plants collection for more nightstand-worthy options. 3. ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) The ZZ plant has thick, waxy leaves that look so glossy and perfect that people sometimes mistake it for artificial. It stores water in its bulbous rhizomes, making it incredibly drought-tolerant — and it thrives in low light like few other plants can. The newer 'Raven' variety features dramatic dark, almost-black foliage that looks stunning in minimalist interiors. Care tip: Water sparingly — once every 3–4 weeks in low light. The biggest mistake with ZZ plants is kindness: too much water, too much attention. Leave it alone and it rewards you with slow, steady growth. Best for: The plant for people who "kill everything." Perfect for offices, interior hallways, and darker areas of the home. 4. Philodendron (Philodendron spp.) The philodendron family is enormous and wonderfully shade-tolerant. The heartleaf philodendron (P. hederaceum) is the classic pick — a trailing vine with glossy, deep-green heart-shaped leaves that thrives in dim conditions. But many other philodendrons also do well in lower light, including the velvety micans, the lemon-lime variety, and the larger Brasil with its striking yellow variegation. Care tip: Keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Philodendrons are excellent communicators — yellowing leaves signal overwatering, while leggy growth means the plant is reaching for more light. If it gets too stretched out, give it a trim and propagate the cuttings. Best for: Trailing from shelves, climbing moss poles, or sitting on a desk. Explore our philodendron collection to find your perfect match. 5. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum) The peace lily is one of the few low-light plants that blooms indoors. Its elegant white spathes rise above deep green foliage, and the whole plant has a graceful, sculptural quality. Peace lilies are also excellent air purifiers, filtering toxins like formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene from indoor air. Care tip: Peace lilies like consistently moist (not waterlogged) soil. They're famously dramatic — the whole plant wilts when it's thirsty, then perks back up within hours of watering. In low light, they'll bloom less frequently but still produce healthy foliage. If you want more blooms, move them to medium indirect light. Best for: Living rooms, bedrooms, and bathrooms. A top choice if you want flowers in a low-light space. 6. Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior) The name says it all. The cast iron plant earned its nickname because it's nearly impossible to kill. Victorian gardeners prized it for surviving in the darkest, draftiest corners of gas-lit parlors — and it's just as tough today. The long, arching, dark-green leaves grow slowly but steadily, creating a lush, fountain-like display. Care tip: Water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves — this plant genuinely prefers shade. Dust the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth to keep them photosynthesizing efficiently. Best for: The darkest corners of your home, under stairs, in hallways without windows. If you have a spot where nothing else survives, try a cast iron plant. 7. Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema) Chinese evergreens are the unsung heroes of low-light gardening. They come in a stunning range of colors and patterns — from silver-green to deep red to pink-speckled — and most varieties tolerate low to medium light. The darker-leaved varieties (plain green or silver-green) are the most shade-tolerant; the more colorful cultivars (reds, pinks) prefer slightly brighter conditions to maintain their pigmentation. Care tip: Allow the top inch of soil to dry between waterings. Chinese evergreens don't like cold drafts, so keep them away from air conditioning vents and exterior doors in winter. Use well-draining soil to prevent waterlogging. Best for: Tabletops, desks, and low shelves. Browse our Aglaonema collection for the full range of varieties. 8. Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) Want to add a tropical vibe to a dim room? The parlor palm is your answer. This elegant, slow-growing palm has been a favorite indoor plant since the Victorian era — when homes were far darker than today's interiors. Its delicate, feathery fronds add texture and movement to any space without demanding much light at all. Care tip: Keep soil evenly moist but never soggy. Parlor palms are sensitive to overwatering and fluoride in tap water. If leaf tips turn brown, switch to filtered or distilled water. They also appreciate occasional misting or a nearby humidifier, especially in heated winter rooms. Read our full parlor palm care guide for detailed tips. Best for: Living rooms, offices, bedrooms — anywhere you want graceful, palm-tree vibes without bright sun. See our palms collection. 9. Dracaena (Dracaena spp.) Dracaenas are striking architectural plants with strap-like leaves and often tree-like trunks. The genus includes popular varieties like the corn plant (D. fragrans), the dragon tree (D. marginata), and the song of India (D. reflexa). Most dracaenas adapt well to lower light, though they grow more slowly and may lose some variegation. Care tip: Dracaenas are sensitive to fluoride and chlorine in tap water — use filtered water or let tap water sit out overnight before watering. Let the top third of the soil dry between waterings. Brown leaf tips are almost always a water-quality issue, not a light issue. Best for: Floor plants in corners, entryways, and offices. Their vertical growth habit makes them great space-fillers without taking up floor area. 10. Ferns (Various Species) Many ferns are natural understory plants, growing beneath the canopy of tropical forests where little direct sunlight penetrates. The Boston fern, maidenhair fern, bird's nest fern, and rabbit's foot fern all do well in low to medium indirect light. They bring a lush, wild, cottage-garden quality to indoor spaces. Care tip: Humidity is the key to happy ferns. They crave moisture in the air — think 50%+ relative humidity. A bathroom with a window is ideal. Otherwise, use a pebble tray or humidifier. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, and mist the fronds regularly. Best for: Bathrooms, kitchens, hanging baskets in humid rooms, or grouped with other plants to create a microclimate. 11. Calathea / Prayer Plant (Calathea / Maranta) Calatheas and marantas are prized for their stunning, hand-painted-looking leaf patterns. Stripes, spots, waves, and two-tone coloring make every leaf a work of art. These plants fold their leaves upward at night (hence the name "prayer plant") and unfurl them in the morning — a mesmerizing daily ritual. They prefer indirect light and can tolerate lower light conditions. Care tip: These plants are fussy about water quality — they hate minerals, chlorine, and fluoride. Use filtered, distilled, or rainwater. Keep humidity high (above 50%) and the soil consistently moist. Brown, crispy leaf edges are the classic sign that humidity is too low. Best for: Shelves and tabletops in north-facing rooms, bedrooms, and any space where you want living artwork. 12. Fittonia / Nerve Plant (Fittonia albivenis) Fittonias are small, compact plants with intricately veined leaves in white, pink, red, or green. They're native to the forest floor of tropical rainforests, which means they're built for low light and high humidity. They also make excellent terrarium plants because of their compact size and humidity love. Care tip: Fittonias are dramatic — they'll wilt completely when dry and bounce back within minutes of watering. Keep soil consistently moist and humidity above 50%. They're pet-safe, making them a worry-free choice for cat and dog owners. Best for: Terrariums, desks, bathrooms, and small spaces. Shop our Fittonia Nerve Plant collection. 13. Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum) Spider plants are one of the most beginner-friendly houseplants in existence. They produce long, arching leaves with green-and-white striping, and they send out runners with tiny plantlets ("spiderettes") that you can snip and propagate easily. While they prefer bright indirect light, they tolerate low light remarkably well — they'll just grow a bit slower and produce fewer babies. Care tip: Water when the top inch of soil dries out. Spider plants are resilient and forgiving of both underwatering and low light. Like dracaenas, they're sensitive to fluoride in tap water — brown tips are usually a water-quality issue. They're also non-toxic to cats and dogs. Best for: Hanging baskets, shelves, and any room where you want a classic, easy-care trailing plant. 14. Peperomia (Peperomia spp.) Peperomias are a diverse group of compact, often succulent-like plants that do surprisingly well in lower light. Popular varieties include the watermelon peperomia (with stunning watermelon-striped leaves), the baby rubber plant, and the trailing string of turtles. Their compact size makes them perfect for desks, windowsills, and small shelves. Care tip: Peperomias store water in their thick leaves and stems, so they need less frequent watering than most tropical plants. Let the soil dry out a bit between waterings. They're prone to root rot if overwatered, so use a well-draining potting mix and a pot with drainage holes. Best for: Desks, bookshelves, and small spaces. Great for offices with only fluorescent lighting. 15. English Ivy (Hedera helix) English ivy is a vigorous trailing vine that thrives in cooler, shadier conditions — making it unusual among houseplants, most of which prefer warmth. Its classic lobed leaves come in solid green and variegated varieties. Ivy is an excellent air purifier and looks gorgeous spilling from hanging baskets or climbing a small trellis. Care tip: Ivy prefers cooler temperatures (60–75°F) and consistent moisture. It can struggle in hot, dry rooms. Mist regularly or provide a humidity tray. Watch for spider mites, which are ivy's primary pest — rinse the leaves periodically with a gentle stream of water. Check our pest identification guide if you spot webs. Best for: Cool rooms, basements with small windows, north-facing kitchens, and bathrooms. How to Help Low Light Plants Thrive Even the most shade-tolerant plants appreciate a few simple tricks that can make the difference between merely surviving and truly thriving. Maximize Available Light Clean your windows. Sounds obvious, but dusty or grimy windows can block a surprising amount of light. A quick wipe can boost light levels by 10–20%. Use mirrors. Placing a mirror on the wall opposite a window bounces light deeper into the room. Choose light-colored pots and surfaces. White or cream-colored containers and shelves reflect light up toward the plant's leaves. Rotate your plants. Give each plant a quarter turn every week or two so all sides receive even light exposure. This prevents lopsided, leggy growth. Adjust Your Watering Schedule This is the single most important adjustment for low-light plant care. Plants in low light photosynthesize more slowly, which means they use less water. If you water on the same schedule you'd use for a sun-drenched windowsill plant, you'll likely cause root rot. Always check the soil moisture before watering — stick your finger an inch into the soil Most low-light plants prefer the top 1–2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings Reduce watering frequency by 30–50% compared to the same plant in bright light Use pots with drainage holes — standing water is the enemy Feed Less Frequently Low-light plants grow more slowly, so they need less fertilizer. Over-fertilizing can lead to salt buildup in the soil, which damages roots. Feed at half strength during the growing season (spring and summer) and skip fertilizing entirely in fall and winter. Keep Leaves Clean In low light, every bit of photosynthesis counts. Dust on leaves blocks light absorption. Wipe large leaves with a damp cloth monthly, and give smaller-leaved plants a gentle shower in the sink or bathtub every few weeks. Know When to Add Grow Lights If your plant is showing signs of insufficient light — pale new growth, leggy stems stretching toward the window, dropped leaves, or no growth at all — a grow light can make all the difference. Modern LED grow lights are affordable, energy-efficient, and can be clipped onto a shelf or desk. Even 6–8 hours of supplemental light can transform a struggling plant into a thriving one. Common Mistakes With Low Light Houseplants Even experienced plant parents make these errors when growing plants in shade: Overwatering. The #1 killer. Less light = slower water uptake = soggy roots = rot. When in doubt, don't water. Expecting fast growth. Low-light plants grow slowly. That's normal. Resist the urge to over-fertilize or move plants around constantly. Choosing the wrong varieties. Succulents, cacti, and most flowering plants need bright light. Putting a succulent in a dark corner is a recipe for disappointment. Ignoring humidity. Many shade-loving plants are tropical understory species that also need humidity. Dry air from heating or AC can stress them even if the light is perfect. Forgetting about pests. Low-light conditions and damp soil can attract fungus gnats. Let the soil dry a bit between waterings to discourage them. Quick Reference: Low Light Plant Comparison Plant Light Tolerance Watering Humidity Pet-Safe? Best Feature Pothos Very Low Low Any No Trails beautifully Snake Plant Very Low Very Low Any No Nearly indestructible ZZ Plant Very Low Very Low Any No Glossy, modern look Philodendron Low Moderate Any No Huge variety of forms Peace Lily Low Moderate Medium No Blooms in shade Cast Iron Plant Very Low Low Any Yes Thrives on neglect Chinese Evergreen Low Moderate Any No Colorful foliage Parlor Palm Low Moderate Medium Yes Tropical elegance Dracaena Low Low Any No Architectural height Ferns Low High High Yes Lush, wild texture Calathea Low Moderate High Yes Stunning leaf patterns Fittonia Low Moderate High Yes Vivid veined leaves Spider Plant Low–Medium Moderate Any Yes Easy propagation Peperomia Low–Medium Low Any Yes Compact & diverse English Ivy Low Moderate Medium No Classic trailing vine Bring Life to Every Corner of Your Home Low light doesn't have to mean no plants. With the right varieties and a few simple adjustments to your watering and care routine, even the shadiest room in your home can become a thriving green oasis. Start with one or two of the hardiest picks on this list — pothos, snake plant, or ZZ plant — and once you see how well they do, you'll want to fill every dim corner. Ready to find your perfect shade plant? Browse our Low Light Plants collection, or explore Easy Care Plants for more forgiving varieties. Every plant ships directly from our greenhouse to your door — healthy, rooted, and ready to brighten your space.

Summer Houseplant Care: 10 Tips to Keep Your Indoor Plants Thriving in the Heat Summer is the season of growth for your houseplants — longer days, stronger light, and warmer temperatures mean your indoor jungle is primed to explode with new leaves, runners, and blooms. But the same heat and intensity that fuels that growth can also cause problems if you're not ready for them. Sunburn, dehydration, pest outbreaks, and heat stress can turn your thriving collection into a struggling one seemingly overnight. Here at Divine Roots Botanicals, we grow plants year-round, and summer is when we see the most dramatic transformations — both good and bad. These 10 tips will keep yours firmly on the "good" side. Why Summer Changes Everything About Plant Care Your houseplants don't care what the calendar says — they respond to light, temperature, and humidity. And all three shift dramatically between spring and summer. Days get longer (up to 15+ hours of light in many regions), temperatures climb, and the angle of sunlight through your windows changes. That window that gave gentle indirect light in February? It might now be blasting direct afternoon sun straight onto your Calathea's leaves. The good news is that most houseplants are actively growing in summer, which means they're resilient, responsive, and ready to reward good care with visible new growth. The key is adjusting your routine to match the season. 1. Water More Frequently — But Don't Overdo It This is the single biggest adjustment you'll make in summer. Higher temperatures and stronger light mean your plants are photosynthesizing more, growing faster, and using water at a much higher rate. Soil that stayed moist for a week in winter might dry out in 2–3 days now. What to do: Check your plants every 2–3 days instead of weekly Use the finger test: push your finger an inch into the soil. If it's dry, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage hole Water in the morning when possible — this gives plants all day to absorb moisture before the peak heat Don't let water sit in saucers for more than 30 minutes — standing water in hot weather is a recipe for root rot That said, more watering doesn't mean drowning your plants. Succulents and other drought-tolerant plants still need their soil to dry out between waterings — they just dry out faster in summer. The rhythm changes, but the principle stays the same. 2. Protect Your Plants From Sunburn Yes, plants can get sunburned — and it's one of the most common summer problems we see. The sun sits higher in the sky during summer months, which means light angles through your windows change. A spot that received gentle morning light in March might now get blasted with intense midday sun. Signs of sunburn: Bleached, white, or pale patches on leaves Brown, crispy edges or spots (especially on the side facing the window) Leaves curling away from the light source What to do: Move sensitive plants like Fittonia, Calathea, and ferns back from south and west-facing windows Use sheer curtains to filter intense direct light Rotate your plants a quarter-turn each week so all sides get even exposure Damaged leaves won't recover — trim them off to redirect the plant's energy into new growth Sun-loving plants like Echeveria, Sedum, and Lantana will thrive in brighter summer light, but even they can burn if suddenly moved from shade to direct sun without a gradual acclimation period. 3. Boost Humidity for Tropical Plants Here's the summer paradox: it's hot and humid outside, but inside your air-conditioned home it can be bone dry. Air conditioning strips moisture from the air, creating a desert-like environment that tropical plants hate. If you notice your Calathea's leaves curling, your fern's fronds going crispy, or your Fittonia wilting dramatically, low humidity is likely the culprit. How to increase humidity: Group your plants together — plants naturally release moisture through transpiration. A cluster of plants creates a humid microclimate around them Use a pebble tray — set pots on a tray filled with pebbles and water (the pot should sit on the pebbles, not in the water). As the water evaporates, it humidifies the air around the plant Run a humidifier — the most effective option for large collections. Aim for 50–60% humidity for most tropicals Mist strategically — a morning mist can help, but it's a temporary fix. Focus on the methods above for lasting results Keep plants away from AC vents — the cold, dry air blowing directly on leaves causes rapid moisture loss 4. Feed Your Growing Plants Summer is peak growing season, and growing plants are hungry plants. Unlike winter, when most houseplants are dormant or semi-dormant, summer is when your plants can actually use the nutrients you give them. Fertilizing guidelines for summer: Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (like a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) diluted to half strength Feed every 2–4 weeks during the growing season (roughly May through September) Always water the soil before fertilizing — never apply fertilizer to dry soil, as it can burn the roots Succulents and cacti: use a diluted cactus-specific fertilizer once a month. Less is more Skip fertilizer for any plant that's stressed, recently repotted, or showing signs of illness — it needs to recover first, not be pushed to grow Signs of over-fertilizing include white crusty buildup on the soil surface, brown leaf tips, and wilting despite moist soil. If you see these, flush the soil with plain water several times and skip fertilizer for a month. 5. Summer Is Prime Time for Repotting If you've been putting off repotting, summer is the ideal time. Plants are actively growing and can recover from the disruption much faster than they would in fall or winter. Signs your plant needs repotting: Roots growing out of the drainage holes Water running straight through the pot without being absorbed The plant is top-heavy and tips over easily Growth has stalled despite good light and consistent watering The root ball is a dense, circling mass when you slide the plant out of the pot For a detailed walkthrough of the process, check out our complete repotting guide. The general rule: go up one pot size (1–2 inches wider in diameter) and use fresh, appropriate potting mix. 6. Propagate While the Growing Is Good Summer's warm temperatures and strong light create ideal conditions for propagation. Cuttings root faster, divisions recover quicker, and your success rate is dramatically higher than trying in the dead of winter. Easy summer propagation projects: Pothos — snip below a node, place in water, roots appear in 1–2 weeks Tradescantia — one of the fastest-rooting plants; cuttings root in days Philodendron — stem cuttings in water or directly in soil Spider Plant — those dangling "babies" (spiderettes) can be snipped and potted Succulents — leaf propagation is slow but deeply satisfying. Summer warmth speeds the process significantly Angel Wing Begonia — stem cuttings root readily in water during summer. With over a dozen varieties in our collection, you can build quite the Begonia family 7. Watch for Summer Pest Outbreaks Warm, dry indoor conditions are a pest paradise. Summer is peak season for the most common houseplant invaders, and an infestation can spread fast through a closely grouped plant collection. The usual suspects: Spider mites — tiny red or brown dots on the undersides of leaves, fine webbing between stems. Thrive in hot, dry air (hello, air conditioning). Mist leaves regularly and wipe them down to prevent infestations. Fungus gnats — tiny black flies hovering around soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings. A layer of sand on top of the soil deters egg-laying. Mealybugs — white, cottony clusters on stems and leaf joints. Wipe off with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab. Thrips — tiny, slender insects that leave silvery streaks on leaves. Treat with neem oil or insecticidal soap. For a complete identification guide, check our article on houseplant pest identification and treatment. Prevention is key: Inspect your plants weekly during summer. Check the undersides of leaves, leaf joints, and the soil surface. Catching pests early — when there are only a few — is infinitely easier than dealing with a full infestation. 8. Know When (and How) to Move Plants Outdoors Many houseplants love spending summer outdoors — the increased airflow, natural light, and humidity can supercharge their growth. But the transition needs to be gradual, or you'll shock your plants. How to transition plants outdoors safely: Wait until nighttime temperatures are consistently above 55°F (13°C) — most tropical houseplants can't handle cold nights Start in full shade for the first week, even if the plant normally loves bright light. Indoor plants haven't built up UV tolerance Gradually increase sun exposure over 2 weeks Place plants in a sheltered spot — protected from strong wind and heavy rain Check for pests more frequently — outdoor plants are exposed to insects they never encounter inside Best candidates for outdoor summer vacations: Lantana (naturally an outdoor bloomer), succulents, Coleus, and Tradescantia. Plants to keep inside: Fittonia, Calathea, and most ferns prefer the controlled indoor environment year-round. 9. Plan for Vacations Summer means travel — and leaving your plants unattended for a week or two can be stressful (for you and them). Here's how to vacation-proof your indoor garden: For trips up to 1 week: Water all plants thoroughly the day before you leave Move plants away from direct sunlight to slow evaporation Group plants together to create a humid microclimate Succulents and drought-tolerant plants will be fine — they barely notice a week without water For trips of 1–2 weeks: Use self-watering spikes or globes — inexpensive and effective Set thirsty plants on a capillary mat (a damp towel) in a bathtub or sink, where they can wick up water as needed Fill a large container with water and run cotton wicks from the water into each pot — DIY drip irrigation Ask a plant-loving friend or neighbor (bribery with plant cuttings works well) For longer absences: Consider moving your most sensitive plants to a friend's house. Hardy plants like Pothos, Spider Plants, and Chinese Evergreen can handle a couple of weeks of neglect, especially in lower-light spots where they use less water. 10. Watch for Signs of Heat Stress Even indoors, extreme heat can stress your plants — especially during heat waves when indoor temperatures climb above 85°F (29°C), or when plants sit too close to sun-baked windows. Signs of heat stress: Wilting or drooping despite moist soil (the plant is losing water through its leaves faster than roots can absorb it) Leaf edges turning brown and crispy Sudden leaf drop Flowers wilting or dropping prematurely Soil drying out within 24 hours of watering How to help a heat-stressed plant: Move it away from windows during the hottest part of the day (typically 12–4 PM) Increase humidity around the plant with misting or a pebble tray Water more frequently, but ensure good drainage Don't fertilize a heat-stressed plant — it needs rest, not a growth push Run a fan on low to improve air circulation (stagnant hot air is worse than moving hot air) Your Summer Plant Care Calendar Here's a quick reference to keep your plant care on track all summer long: Weekly: Check soil moisture on all plants. Inspect for pests. Rotate pots a quarter-turn. Wipe dust off large leaves Bi-weekly: Fertilize actively growing plants at half-strength Monthly: Check if any plants need repotting. Prune leggy growth. Clean drainage saucers As needed: Propagate cuttings from pruning. Adjust plant positions as sun angles change through the season Summer-Ready Plants from Divine Roots Whether you're building out your collection for summer or looking for heat-tolerant, easy-care additions, these collections are a great starting point: 🌿 Shop Our Best Sellers — The most popular plants in our greenhouse right now 🌿 Beauty Without the Fuss — Low-maintenance picks that handle summer like pros 🌵 Succulent Collection — Sun-loving, drought-tolerant summer stars 🌸 Lantana Collection — Colorful bloomers that thrive in summer heat 🐾 Pet-Friendly Plants — Safe choices for homes with curious summer pets 🌑 Low-Light Plants — Perfect for rooms where you've pulled plants back from bright windows Frequently Asked Questions Should I water my houseplants more in summer? Yes. Higher temperatures, stronger light, and active growth all increase your plants' water needs. Most houseplants will need watering roughly twice as often in summer as in winter. Check the soil every 2–3 days and water when the top inch feels dry. Always water deeply until it runs from the drainage hole, rather than giving small, frequent sips. Can houseplants get too hot indoors? Absolutely. Most tropical houseplants prefer temperatures between 65–85°F (18–29°C). When indoor temperatures climb above 90°F (32°C) — especially near windows in direct sun — plants can experience heat stress, wilting, and leaf damage. Move sensitive plants away from hot windows and use fans for air circulation during heat waves. Is it safe to put houseplants outside in summer? Many houseplants benefit from spending summer outdoors, but the transition must be gradual. Start in full shade for a week, then slowly increase light exposure. Wait until nighttime temperatures stay above 55°F (13°C). Keep outdoor plants in sheltered spots away from harsh wind and inspect them regularly for pests before bringing them back inside in fall. Why are my plant's leaves turning brown at the tips in summer? Brown leaf tips in summer are usually caused by one of three things: low humidity (especially from air conditioning), underwatering, or salt buildup from fertilizer. Increase humidity around the plant, make sure you're watering deeply when you do water, and flush the soil with plain water monthly to wash out accumulated salts. For a deeper dive, check our leaf troubleshooting guide. When is the best time to repot houseplants in summer? Early summer (May–June) is ideal. The plant has the entire growing season ahead to recover and establish roots in its new pot. Avoid repotting during heat waves or when the plant is already stressed. Water thoroughly after repotting and keep the plant out of direct sun for a week while it settles in. Our step-by-step repotting guide walks you through the full process. How do I keep my plants alive while on vacation? For trips up to a week, water deeply before leaving and move plants away from direct sun. For 1–2 week trips, use self-watering spikes, a capillary mat setup, or DIY cotton-wick watering. Move plants to lower-light spots to reduce water consumption. Hardy plants like Pothos, Spider Plants, and succulents handle short absences well on their own.

How to Build a Terrarium: A Complete Beginner's Guide There's something magical about a terrarium — a self-contained little world of lush greenery, living right on your desk or windowsill. Whether you've been eyeing those gorgeous glass jars on Pinterest or you want a creative weekend project that doubles as living home décor, building your own terrarium is easier than you think. At Divine Roots Botanicals, we grow many of the perfect plants for terrariums, and in this guide, we'll walk you through every step — from choosing your container to planting, decorating, and keeping your miniature garden thriving for years. What Is a Terrarium? A terrarium is a miniature garden housed inside a glass or transparent container. Think of it as a tiny, portable ecosystem. The concept has been around since the 1800s, when a London doctor named Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward accidentally discovered that ferns and mosses could thrive inside sealed glass cases. Today, terrariums are one of the hottest trends in indoor gardening — and for good reason. They're beautiful, low-maintenance, and perfect for small spaces like apartments, dorm rooms, and offices. There are two main types of terrariums, and understanding the difference is the single most important decision you'll make before you start building. Closed Terrariums A closed terrarium has a lid or stopper that seals the container. Inside, a self-sustaining water cycle develops: moisture evaporates from the soil and plants, condenses on the glass walls, and drips back down — just like rain in a tiny ecosystem. Closed terrariums are ideal for tropical, humidity-loving plants like Fittonia (nerve plants), mosses, and small ferns. Once established, they can go weeks or even months without watering. Open Terrariums An open terrarium has no lid, allowing air to circulate freely. This creates a drier environment that's perfect for succulents, cacti, and other plants that prefer less humidity. Open terrariums require more frequent watering than closed ones, but they're incredibly forgiving and a fantastic choice for beginners. Gathering Your Materials: Everything You Need Before you get your hands dirty, let's gather everything you need. The beauty of terrarium building is that you don't need fancy or expensive supplies — just the right layers in the right order. The Container Almost any clear glass container can become a terrarium. Here are some popular options: Glass jars — Mason jars, apothecary jars, or cookie jars (great for closed terrariums) Fish bowls — Classic round bowls work beautifully for open terrariums Geometric terrariums — Trendy hexagonal or diamond-shaped glass containers Wardian cases — The traditional terrarium shape, like a miniature greenhouse Large glass bottles or demijohns — For a stunning conversation piece The key is clear glass (so light can reach the plants) and a wide enough opening that you can comfortably get your hands inside — at least for your first build. The Layers A terrarium isn't just soil in a jar. It's a carefully structured system with distinct layers that work together to keep your plants healthy. Here's what you need: Drainage layer: Small pebbles, gravel, or expanded clay balls (LECA) — about 1–2 inches deep Separation layer: A thin piece of activated charcoal or sphagnum moss to prevent soil from settling into the drainage layer and to filter the water Activated charcoal: A sprinkle of horticultural charcoal keeps water fresh and prevents mold and odor — especially important in closed terrariums Substrate (soil): A well-draining potting mix appropriate for your plant type Decorative elements: Small stones, driftwood pieces, miniature figurines, or preserved moss for the finishing touches The Plants This is the fun part. We'll cover the best plant choices in detail below, but the golden rule is: choose plants that share the same environmental needs. Don't mix succulents (which hate humidity) with ferns (which love it) in the same container. Tools Long tweezers or chopsticks (for positioning plants in tight spaces) A small spoon or funnel (for adding soil neatly) A spray bottle (for watering and cleaning the glass) Paper towels (for wiping down the inside of the glass) Step-by-Step: Building Your First Terrarium Ready to build? Follow these steps and you'll have a finished terrarium in about 30 minutes. Step 1: Clean Your Container Wash your glass container thoroughly with warm soapy water and dry it completely. Any residue or bacteria on the glass can encourage mold growth down the road. This is a small step that makes a big difference. Step 2: Add the Drainage Layer Pour 1–2 inches of small pebbles, gravel, or LECA into the bottom of the container. This layer is critical because terrariums don't have drainage holes. Without it, water would pool at the bottom, drown the roots, and cause root rot. The drainage layer gives excess water somewhere to go, away from your plant's roots. Step 3: Add the Charcoal Layer Sprinkle a thin, even layer of activated horticultural charcoal over the drainage stones. This acts as a natural filter — it absorbs impurities, prevents bacterial growth, and keeps your terrarium smelling fresh. For closed terrariums, this layer is non-negotiable. For open terrariums, it's still highly recommended. Step 4: Add a Separation Barrier Place a thin layer of sphagnum moss or a piece of fine mesh screen on top of the charcoal. This barrier prevents your potting soil from sifting down into the drainage layer over time, which would defeat its purpose. Step 5: Add the Soil Add 2–3 inches of potting mix (the amount depends on your container size and plant root depth). For tropical closed terrariums, a standard indoor potting mix works well. For succulent open terrariums, use a well-draining cactus/succulent mix. Use a spoon or funnel to add the soil neatly — try to keep it off the glass walls for a cleaner look. Pro tip: Create small hills and valleys in the soil for a more natural, landscape-like appearance rather than a flat surface. Step 6: Plant Your Plants Now the creative part begins. Before placing anything permanently, arrange your plants on the table outside the container first to plan your layout. Consider: Place taller plants in the back (or center, if the terrarium will be viewed from all sides) Use shorter, spreading plants like Fittonia around the edges Leave some space between plants — they'll grow! Odd numbers (3 or 5 plants) tend to look more natural than even groupings Gently remove each plant from its nursery pot, shake off excess soil, and use your fingers or long tweezers to nestle the roots into the terrarium soil. Press the soil firmly around the base of each plant to secure it. Step 7: Decorate This is where your terrarium goes from "garden project" to "art piece." Add decorative elements like: Small river stones or colored pebbles Pieces of driftwood or bark Preserved sheet moss to cover exposed soil Miniature figurines (tiny animals, fairy garden accessories, or small stones) Step 8: Water and Clean Give your new terrarium a light misting with a spray bottle. For closed terrariums, you want the soil to be damp but not soggy — err on the side of too little water. You can always add more, but removing excess from a sealed container is tricky. For open terrariums, water lightly around the base of each plant. Use a damp paper towel wrapped around a chopstick to wipe any soil smudges off the inside of the glass. A clean container lets the light in and shows off your plants beautifully. The Best Plants for Terrariums Not every houseplant belongs in a terrarium. You need plants that stay small, tolerate the unique terrarium environment, and play well with neighbors. Here are our top recommendations — all of which we grow and ship at Divine Roots. Best Plants for Closed Terrariums (Tropical / Humid) Fittonia (Nerve Plant) — The ultimate terrarium plant. Colorful veined leaves in pink, white, and red. Stays compact, loves humidity, and thrives in low to medium light. Our Fittonia Terrarium Builder Bundle comes with 4 assorted varieties — everything you need for a stunning closed terrarium. Ferns (Boston Fern, Maidenhair Fern) — Feathery, delicate fronds that love the humid environment inside a closed terrarium. Compact varieties work best. For more on fern care, see our Boston Fern care guide. Pilea Baby Tears — Tiny, round leaves that create a lush carpet-like groundcover. Perfect for filling in gaps between taller plants. Read more in our Pilea care guide. Mosses — Sheet moss and cushion moss add a forest-floor feel and thrive in the constant humidity of a closed container. Episcia (Flame Violet) — Metallic-patterned leaves with small tubular flowers. A lesser-known terrarium gem that loves humid conditions. Check out our Episcia care guide for detailed growing tips. Best Plants for Open Terrariums (Dry / Succulent) Echeveria — Beautiful rosette-shaped succulents in pastel pinks, purples, and greens. We carry over 20 varieties, from Perle von Nürnberg to Blue Bird. See our Echeveria care guide. Sedum — Compact, textured succulents that add variety in form and color. Great as groundcover between larger specimens. Our Sedum care guide has you covered. Crassula — Including the popular jade plant family. Small varieties are perfect for open terrariums. More in our Crassula care guide. Sempervivum (Hens & Chicks) — Hardy rosettes that multiply by producing "chicks" around the mother plant. A terrarium that grows itself! Read our Sempervivum care guide. Caring for Your Terrarium: What to Expect One of the biggest advantages of terrariums is how little maintenance they need — but "low maintenance" doesn't mean "no maintenance." Here's how to keep your miniature garden happy. Watering Closed terrariums: After the initial watering, you may not need to water again for weeks or even months. Watch for condensation on the glass — a light fog is normal and healthy. If the glass is completely covered in heavy droplets and you can't see inside, open the lid for a few hours to let excess moisture escape. If the soil looks dry and there's no condensation at all, add a small amount of water with a spray bottle. Open terrariums: Check the soil every 1–2 weeks. Water sparingly when the top layer of soil feels dry. For succulent terrariums, less is always more — overwatering is the number one killer. If you're not sure whether to water, wait another few days. Light Place your terrarium in bright, indirect light. Near a north or east-facing window is ideal. Avoid direct sunlight — the glass acts like a magnifying glass and can cook your plants. If your space is low on natural light, a small LED grow light works beautifully. Pruning As your plants grow, they may start to outgrow their space. This is a good sign! Use small scissors or tweezers to trim back any plants that are pressing against the glass or crowding their neighbors. Regular pruning keeps the terrarium looking tidy and prevents one aggressive grower from taking over. Troubleshooting Common Problems Mold or fungus: Remove the affected area immediately with tweezers. Open the lid (if closed) for better air circulation. Reduce watering. A sprinkle of cinnamon powder (a natural antifungal) on the soil surface can help. Yellowing leaves: Usually a sign of overwatering. Check our guide on why plant leaves turn yellow for more detailed troubleshooting. Foggy glass (closed terrarium): Some condensation is normal. Heavy, persistent fog means too much moisture — open the lid for a few hours. Leggy, stretched plants: Not enough light. Move the terrarium closer to a light source. Pests: Fungus gnats are the most common terrarium pest. Allow the top layer of soil to dry between waterings to discourage them, or add a thin layer of decorative sand on top. Creative Terrarium Ideas to Inspire You Once you've mastered the basics, the creative possibilities are endless: Fairy garden terrarium — Add tiny figurines, miniature furniture, and a winding pebble path Moss-only terrarium — Create a moody, forest-floor landscape using different moss varieties and small stones Desert landscape — Use sand, small rocks, and succulents for a Southwestern-inspired open terrarium Carnivorous plant terrarium — A closed terrarium with Venus flytraps and sundews creates a fascinating conversation piece Gift terrariums — Build a terrarium in a beautiful jar for a personalized, living gift that lasts Shop Terrarium Plants at Divine Roots Ready to build your first terrarium? Start with plants that are proven terrarium performers: 🌿 Fittonia Terrarium Builder Bundle — 4 assorted nerve plants, perfect for one closed terrarium 🌿 Combo Terrarium Starter Plant — A hand-selected mix for terrariums 🌿 Full Fittonia Nerve Plant Collection — Browse all our colorful nerve plant varieties 🌵 Succulent Collection — Perfect for open desert-style terrariums 🪴 Carnivorous Plant Collection — For a truly unique terrarium experience 🌱 Small Indoor Plants — Compact plants sized right for terrariums Frequently Asked Questions How long do terrariums last? A well-maintained terrarium can last for years — even decades. The world's oldest known terrarium was sealed in 1960 and was still thriving over 50 years later. Closed terrariums are particularly long-lived because they create a self-sustaining water cycle. The key to longevity is starting with the right plants, proper layering, and occasional maintenance like pruning and mold removal. Can I use regular potting soil in a terrarium? For tropical closed terrariums, a standard indoor potting mix works well. For succulent open terrariums, use a specialized cactus and succulent mix that drains quickly. Avoid soil with added fertilizer (marked "feeds for 6 months") as the enclosed environment can cause fertilizer salts to build up. For the best results, check our complete guide to potting mixes. Do terrariums need sunlight? Terrariums need bright, indirect light — not direct sunlight. The glass walls act like a greenhouse and amplify heat, which can literally cook your plants in direct sun. A spot near a north or east-facing window is ideal. If you don't have good natural light, a small LED grow light set on a timer for 10–12 hours works perfectly. Why is my closed terrarium fogging up? Light condensation on the glass is completely normal and actually a sign of a healthy water cycle. If the fog is so thick you can't see inside, the terrarium has too much moisture. Simply remove the lid for a few hours to let excess humidity escape, then reseal. Over time, you'll find the right balance. Can succulents go in a closed terrarium? No — succulents need dry, well-ventilated conditions and will quickly develop rot in the humid environment of a closed terrarium. Always use an open, lidless container for succulents and cacti. For tropical plants that love humidity (like Fittonia, ferns, and mosses), closed terrariums are the way to go. How often should I water my terrarium? For closed terrariums, you may only need to water every few weeks to a few months — watch the condensation level as your guide. For open terrariums, check the soil every 1–2 weeks and water sparingly when dry. The number one mistake new terrarium owners make is overwatering. When in doubt, wait.