Plant Care

Summer Houseplant Care: 10 Tips to Keep Your Indoor Plants Thriving in the Heat Summer is the season of growth for your houseplants — longer days, stronger light, and warmer temperatures mean your indoor jungle is primed to explode with new leaves, runners, and blooms. But the same heat and intensity that fuels that growth can also cause problems if you're not ready for them. Sunburn, dehydration, pest outbreaks, and heat stress can turn your thriving collection into a struggling one seemingly overnight. Here at Divine Roots Botanicals, we grow plants year-round, and summer is when we see the most dramatic transformations — both good and bad. These 10 tips will keep yours firmly on the "good" side. Why Summer Changes Everything About Plant Care Your houseplants don't care what the calendar says — they respond to light, temperature, and humidity. And all three shift dramatically between spring and summer. Days get longer (up to 15+ hours of light in many regions), temperatures climb, and the angle of sunlight through your windows changes. That window that gave gentle indirect light in February? It might now be blasting direct afternoon sun straight onto your Calathea's leaves. The good news is that most houseplants are actively growing in summer, which means they're resilient, responsive, and ready to reward good care with visible new growth. The key is adjusting your routine to match the season. 1. Water More Frequently — But Don't Overdo It This is the single biggest adjustment you'll make in summer. Higher temperatures and stronger light mean your plants are photosynthesizing more, growing faster, and using water at a much higher rate. Soil that stayed moist for a week in winter might dry out in 2–3 days now. What to do: Check your plants every 2–3 days instead of weekly Use the finger test: push your finger an inch into the soil. If it's dry, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage hole Water in the morning when possible — this gives plants all day to absorb moisture before the peak heat Don't let water sit in saucers for more than 30 minutes — standing water in hot weather is a recipe for root rot That said, more watering doesn't mean drowning your plants. Succulents and other drought-tolerant plants still need their soil to dry out between waterings — they just dry out faster in summer. The rhythm changes, but the principle stays the same. 2. Protect Your Plants From Sunburn Yes, plants can get sunburned — and it's one of the most common summer problems we see. The sun sits higher in the sky during summer months, which means light angles through your windows change. A spot that received gentle morning light in March might now get blasted with intense midday sun. Signs of sunburn: Bleached, white, or pale patches on leaves Brown, crispy edges or spots (especially on the side facing the window) Leaves curling away from the light source What to do: Move sensitive plants like Fittonia, Calathea, and ferns back from south and west-facing windows Use sheer curtains to filter intense direct light Rotate your plants a quarter-turn each week so all sides get even exposure Damaged leaves won't recover — trim them off to redirect the plant's energy into new growth Sun-loving plants like Echeveria, Sedum, and Lantana will thrive in brighter summer light, but even they can burn if suddenly moved from shade to direct sun without a gradual acclimation period. 3. Boost Humidity for Tropical Plants Here's the summer paradox: it's hot and humid outside, but inside your air-conditioned home it can be bone dry. Air conditioning strips moisture from the air, creating a desert-like environment that tropical plants hate. If you notice your Calathea's leaves curling, your fern's fronds going crispy, or your Fittonia wilting dramatically, low humidity is likely the culprit. How to increase humidity: Group your plants together — plants naturally release moisture through transpiration. A cluster of plants creates a humid microclimate around them Use a pebble tray — set pots on a tray filled with pebbles and water (the pot should sit on the pebbles, not in the water). As the water evaporates, it humidifies the air around the plant Run a humidifier — the most effective option for large collections. Aim for 50–60% humidity for most tropicals Mist strategically — a morning mist can help, but it's a temporary fix. Focus on the methods above for lasting results Keep plants away from AC vents — the cold, dry air blowing directly on leaves causes rapid moisture loss 4. Feed Your Growing Plants Summer is peak growing season, and growing plants are hungry plants. Unlike winter, when most houseplants are dormant or semi-dormant, summer is when your plants can actually use the nutrients you give them. Fertilizing guidelines for summer: Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (like a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) diluted to half strength Feed every 2–4 weeks during the growing season (roughly May through September) Always water the soil before fertilizing — never apply fertilizer to dry soil, as it can burn the roots Succulents and cacti: use a diluted cactus-specific fertilizer once a month. Less is more Skip fertilizer for any plant that's stressed, recently repotted, or showing signs of illness — it needs to recover first, not be pushed to grow Signs of over-fertilizing include white crusty buildup on the soil surface, brown leaf tips, and wilting despite moist soil. If you see these, flush the soil with plain water several times and skip fertilizer for a month. 5. Summer Is Prime Time for Repotting If you've been putting off repotting, summer is the ideal time. Plants are actively growing and can recover from the disruption much faster than they would in fall or winter. Signs your plant needs repotting: Roots growing out of the drainage holes Water running straight through the pot without being absorbed The plant is top-heavy and tips over easily Growth has stalled despite good light and consistent watering The root ball is a dense, circling mass when you slide the plant out of the pot For a detailed walkthrough of the process, check out our complete repotting guide. The general rule: go up one pot size (1–2 inches wider in diameter) and use fresh, appropriate potting mix. 6. Propagate While the Growing Is Good Summer's warm temperatures and strong light create ideal conditions for propagation. Cuttings root faster, divisions recover quicker, and your success rate is dramatically higher than trying in the dead of winter. Easy summer propagation projects: Pothos — snip below a node, place in water, roots appear in 1–2 weeks Tradescantia — one of the fastest-rooting plants; cuttings root in days Philodendron — stem cuttings in water or directly in soil Spider Plant — those dangling "babies" (spiderettes) can be snipped and potted Succulents — leaf propagation is slow but deeply satisfying. Summer warmth speeds the process significantly Angel Wing Begonia — stem cuttings root readily in water during summer. With over a dozen varieties in our collection, you can build quite the Begonia family 7. Watch for Summer Pest Outbreaks Warm, dry indoor conditions are a pest paradise. Summer is peak season for the most common houseplant invaders, and an infestation can spread fast through a closely grouped plant collection. The usual suspects: Spider mites — tiny red or brown dots on the undersides of leaves, fine webbing between stems. Thrive in hot, dry air (hello, air conditioning). Mist leaves regularly and wipe them down to prevent infestations. Fungus gnats — tiny black flies hovering around soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings. A layer of sand on top of the soil deters egg-laying. Mealybugs — white, cottony clusters on stems and leaf joints. Wipe off with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab. Thrips — tiny, slender insects that leave silvery streaks on leaves. Treat with neem oil or insecticidal soap. For a complete identification guide, check our article on houseplant pest identification and treatment. Prevention is key: Inspect your plants weekly during summer. Check the undersides of leaves, leaf joints, and the soil surface. Catching pests early — when there are only a few — is infinitely easier than dealing with a full infestation. 8. Know When (and How) to Move Plants Outdoors Many houseplants love spending summer outdoors — the increased airflow, natural light, and humidity can supercharge their growth. But the transition needs to be gradual, or you'll shock your plants. How to transition plants outdoors safely: Wait until nighttime temperatures are consistently above 55°F (13°C) — most tropical houseplants can't handle cold nights Start in full shade for the first week, even if the plant normally loves bright light. Indoor plants haven't built up UV tolerance Gradually increase sun exposure over 2 weeks Place plants in a sheltered spot — protected from strong wind and heavy rain Check for pests more frequently — outdoor plants are exposed to insects they never encounter inside Best candidates for outdoor summer vacations: Lantana (naturally an outdoor bloomer), succulents, Coleus, and Tradescantia. Plants to keep inside: Fittonia, Calathea, and most ferns prefer the controlled indoor environment year-round. 9. Plan for Vacations Summer means travel — and leaving your plants unattended for a week or two can be stressful (for you and them). Here's how to vacation-proof your indoor garden: For trips up to 1 week: Water all plants thoroughly the day before you leave Move plants away from direct sunlight to slow evaporation Group plants together to create a humid microclimate Succulents and drought-tolerant plants will be fine — they barely notice a week without water For trips of 1–2 weeks: Use self-watering spikes or globes — inexpensive and effective Set thirsty plants on a capillary mat (a damp towel) in a bathtub or sink, where they can wick up water as needed Fill a large container with water and run cotton wicks from the water into each pot — DIY drip irrigation Ask a plant-loving friend or neighbor (bribery with plant cuttings works well) For longer absences: Consider moving your most sensitive plants to a friend's house. Hardy plants like Pothos, Spider Plants, and Chinese Evergreen can handle a couple of weeks of neglect, especially in lower-light spots where they use less water. 10. Watch for Signs of Heat Stress Even indoors, extreme heat can stress your plants — especially during heat waves when indoor temperatures climb above 85°F (29°C), or when plants sit too close to sun-baked windows. Signs of heat stress: Wilting or drooping despite moist soil (the plant is losing water through its leaves faster than roots can absorb it) Leaf edges turning brown and crispy Sudden leaf drop Flowers wilting or dropping prematurely Soil drying out within 24 hours of watering How to help a heat-stressed plant: Move it away from windows during the hottest part of the day (typically 12–4 PM) Increase humidity around the plant with misting or a pebble tray Water more frequently, but ensure good drainage Don't fertilize a heat-stressed plant — it needs rest, not a growth push Run a fan on low to improve air circulation (stagnant hot air is worse than moving hot air) Your Summer Plant Care Calendar Here's a quick reference to keep your plant care on track all summer long: Weekly: Check soil moisture on all plants. Inspect for pests. Rotate pots a quarter-turn. Wipe dust off large leaves Bi-weekly: Fertilize actively growing plants at half-strength Monthly: Check if any plants need repotting. Prune leggy growth. Clean drainage saucers As needed: Propagate cuttings from pruning. Adjust plant positions as sun angles change through the season Summer-Ready Plants from Divine Roots Whether you're building out your collection for summer or looking for heat-tolerant, easy-care additions, these collections are a great starting point: 🌿 Shop Our Best Sellers — The most popular plants in our greenhouse right now 🌿 Beauty Without the Fuss — Low-maintenance picks that handle summer like pros 🌵 Succulent Collection — Sun-loving, drought-tolerant summer stars 🌸 Lantana Collection — Colorful bloomers that thrive in summer heat 🐾 Pet-Friendly Plants — Safe choices for homes with curious summer pets 🌑 Low-Light Plants — Perfect for rooms where you've pulled plants back from bright windows Frequently Asked Questions Should I water my houseplants more in summer? Yes. Higher temperatures, stronger light, and active growth all increase your plants' water needs. Most houseplants will need watering roughly twice as often in summer as in winter. Check the soil every 2–3 days and water when the top inch feels dry. Always water deeply until it runs from the drainage hole, rather than giving small, frequent sips. Can houseplants get too hot indoors? Absolutely. Most tropical houseplants prefer temperatures between 65–85°F (18–29°C). When indoor temperatures climb above 90°F (32°C) — especially near windows in direct sun — plants can experience heat stress, wilting, and leaf damage. Move sensitive plants away from hot windows and use fans for air circulation during heat waves. Is it safe to put houseplants outside in summer? Many houseplants benefit from spending summer outdoors, but the transition must be gradual. Start in full shade for a week, then slowly increase light exposure. Wait until nighttime temperatures stay above 55°F (13°C). Keep outdoor plants in sheltered spots away from harsh wind and inspect them regularly for pests before bringing them back inside in fall. Why are my plant's leaves turning brown at the tips in summer? Brown leaf tips in summer are usually caused by one of three things: low humidity (especially from air conditioning), underwatering, or salt buildup from fertilizer. Increase humidity around the plant, make sure you're watering deeply when you do water, and flush the soil with plain water monthly to wash out accumulated salts. For a deeper dive, check our leaf troubleshooting guide. When is the best time to repot houseplants in summer? Early summer (May–June) is ideal. The plant has the entire growing season ahead to recover and establish roots in its new pot. Avoid repotting during heat waves or when the plant is already stressed. Water thoroughly after repotting and keep the plant out of direct sun for a week while it settles in. Our step-by-step repotting guide walks you through the full process. How do I keep my plants alive while on vacation? For trips up to a week, water deeply before leaving and move plants away from direct sun. For 1–2 week trips, use self-watering spikes, a capillary mat setup, or DIY cotton-wick watering. Move plants to lower-light spots to reduce water consumption. Hardy plants like Pothos, Spider Plants, and succulents handle short absences well on their own.

How to Build a Terrarium: A Complete Beginner's Guide There's something magical about a terrarium — a self-contained little world of lush greenery, living right on your desk or windowsill. Whether you've been eyeing those gorgeous glass jars on Pinterest or you want a creative weekend project that doubles as living home décor, building your own terrarium is easier than you think. At Divine Roots Botanicals, we grow many of the perfect plants for terrariums, and in this guide, we'll walk you through every step — from choosing your container to planting, decorating, and keeping your miniature garden thriving for years. What Is a Terrarium? A terrarium is a miniature garden housed inside a glass or transparent container. Think of it as a tiny, portable ecosystem. The concept has been around since the 1800s, when a London doctor named Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward accidentally discovered that ferns and mosses could thrive inside sealed glass cases. Today, terrariums are one of the hottest trends in indoor gardening — and for good reason. They're beautiful, low-maintenance, and perfect for small spaces like apartments, dorm rooms, and offices. There are two main types of terrariums, and understanding the difference is the single most important decision you'll make before you start building. Closed Terrariums A closed terrarium has a lid or stopper that seals the container. Inside, a self-sustaining water cycle develops: moisture evaporates from the soil and plants, condenses on the glass walls, and drips back down — just like rain in a tiny ecosystem. Closed terrariums are ideal for tropical, humidity-loving plants like Fittonia (nerve plants), mosses, and small ferns. Once established, they can go weeks or even months without watering. Open Terrariums An open terrarium has no lid, allowing air to circulate freely. This creates a drier environment that's perfect for succulents, cacti, and other plants that prefer less humidity. Open terrariums require more frequent watering than closed ones, but they're incredibly forgiving and a fantastic choice for beginners. Gathering Your Materials: Everything You Need Before you get your hands dirty, let's gather everything you need. The beauty of terrarium building is that you don't need fancy or expensive supplies — just the right layers in the right order. The Container Almost any clear glass container can become a terrarium. Here are some popular options: Glass jars — Mason jars, apothecary jars, or cookie jars (great for closed terrariums) Fish bowls — Classic round bowls work beautifully for open terrariums Geometric terrariums — Trendy hexagonal or diamond-shaped glass containers Wardian cases — The traditional terrarium shape, like a miniature greenhouse Large glass bottles or demijohns — For a stunning conversation piece The key is clear glass (so light can reach the plants) and a wide enough opening that you can comfortably get your hands inside — at least for your first build. The Layers A terrarium isn't just soil in a jar. It's a carefully structured system with distinct layers that work together to keep your plants healthy. Here's what you need: Drainage layer: Small pebbles, gravel, or expanded clay balls (LECA) — about 1–2 inches deep Separation layer: A thin piece of activated charcoal or sphagnum moss to prevent soil from settling into the drainage layer and to filter the water Activated charcoal: A sprinkle of horticultural charcoal keeps water fresh and prevents mold and odor — especially important in closed terrariums Substrate (soil): A well-draining potting mix appropriate for your plant type Decorative elements: Small stones, driftwood pieces, miniature figurines, or preserved moss for the finishing touches The Plants This is the fun part. We'll cover the best plant choices in detail below, but the golden rule is: choose plants that share the same environmental needs. Don't mix succulents (which hate humidity) with ferns (which love it) in the same container. Tools Long tweezers or chopsticks (for positioning plants in tight spaces) A small spoon or funnel (for adding soil neatly) A spray bottle (for watering and cleaning the glass) Paper towels (for wiping down the inside of the glass) Step-by-Step: Building Your First Terrarium Ready to build? Follow these steps and you'll have a finished terrarium in about 30 minutes. Step 1: Clean Your Container Wash your glass container thoroughly with warm soapy water and dry it completely. Any residue or bacteria on the glass can encourage mold growth down the road. This is a small step that makes a big difference. Step 2: Add the Drainage Layer Pour 1–2 inches of small pebbles, gravel, or LECA into the bottom of the container. This layer is critical because terrariums don't have drainage holes. Without it, water would pool at the bottom, drown the roots, and cause root rot. The drainage layer gives excess water somewhere to go, away from your plant's roots. Step 3: Add the Charcoal Layer Sprinkle a thin, even layer of activated horticultural charcoal over the drainage stones. This acts as a natural filter — it absorbs impurities, prevents bacterial growth, and keeps your terrarium smelling fresh. For closed terrariums, this layer is non-negotiable. For open terrariums, it's still highly recommended. Step 4: Add a Separation Barrier Place a thin layer of sphagnum moss or a piece of fine mesh screen on top of the charcoal. This barrier prevents your potting soil from sifting down into the drainage layer over time, which would defeat its purpose. Step 5: Add the Soil Add 2–3 inches of potting mix (the amount depends on your container size and plant root depth). For tropical closed terrariums, a standard indoor potting mix works well. For succulent open terrariums, use a well-draining cactus/succulent mix. Use a spoon or funnel to add the soil neatly — try to keep it off the glass walls for a cleaner look. Pro tip: Create small hills and valleys in the soil for a more natural, landscape-like appearance rather than a flat surface. Step 6: Plant Your Plants Now the creative part begins. Before placing anything permanently, arrange your plants on the table outside the container first to plan your layout. Consider: Place taller plants in the back (or center, if the terrarium will be viewed from all sides) Use shorter, spreading plants like Fittonia around the edges Leave some space between plants — they'll grow! Odd numbers (3 or 5 plants) tend to look more natural than even groupings Gently remove each plant from its nursery pot, shake off excess soil, and use your fingers or long tweezers to nestle the roots into the terrarium soil. Press the soil firmly around the base of each plant to secure it. Step 7: Decorate This is where your terrarium goes from "garden project" to "art piece." Add decorative elements like: Small river stones or colored pebbles Pieces of driftwood or bark Preserved sheet moss to cover exposed soil Miniature figurines (tiny animals, fairy garden accessories, or small stones) Step 8: Water and Clean Give your new terrarium a light misting with a spray bottle. For closed terrariums, you want the soil to be damp but not soggy — err on the side of too little water. You can always add more, but removing excess from a sealed container is tricky. For open terrariums, water lightly around the base of each plant. Use a damp paper towel wrapped around a chopstick to wipe any soil smudges off the inside of the glass. A clean container lets the light in and shows off your plants beautifully. The Best Plants for Terrariums Not every houseplant belongs in a terrarium. You need plants that stay small, tolerate the unique terrarium environment, and play well with neighbors. Here are our top recommendations — all of which we grow and ship at Divine Roots. Best Plants for Closed Terrariums (Tropical / Humid) Fittonia (Nerve Plant) — The ultimate terrarium plant. Colorful veined leaves in pink, white, and red. Stays compact, loves humidity, and thrives in low to medium light. Our Fittonia Terrarium Builder Bundle comes with 4 assorted varieties — everything you need for a stunning closed terrarium. Ferns (Boston Fern, Maidenhair Fern) — Feathery, delicate fronds that love the humid environment inside a closed terrarium. Compact varieties work best. For more on fern care, see our Boston Fern care guide. Pilea Baby Tears — Tiny, round leaves that create a lush carpet-like groundcover. Perfect for filling in gaps between taller plants. Read more in our Pilea care guide. Mosses — Sheet moss and cushion moss add a forest-floor feel and thrive in the constant humidity of a closed container. Episcia (Flame Violet) — Metallic-patterned leaves with small tubular flowers. A lesser-known terrarium gem that loves humid conditions. Check out our Episcia care guide for detailed growing tips. Best Plants for Open Terrariums (Dry / Succulent) Echeveria — Beautiful rosette-shaped succulents in pastel pinks, purples, and greens. We carry over 20 varieties, from Perle von Nürnberg to Blue Bird. See our Echeveria care guide. Sedum — Compact, textured succulents that add variety in form and color. Great as groundcover between larger specimens. Our Sedum care guide has you covered. Crassula — Including the popular jade plant family. Small varieties are perfect for open terrariums. More in our Crassula care guide. Sempervivum (Hens & Chicks) — Hardy rosettes that multiply by producing "chicks" around the mother plant. A terrarium that grows itself! Read our Sempervivum care guide. Caring for Your Terrarium: What to Expect One of the biggest advantages of terrariums is how little maintenance they need — but "low maintenance" doesn't mean "no maintenance." Here's how to keep your miniature garden happy. Watering Closed terrariums: After the initial watering, you may not need to water again for weeks or even months. Watch for condensation on the glass — a light fog is normal and healthy. If the glass is completely covered in heavy droplets and you can't see inside, open the lid for a few hours to let excess moisture escape. If the soil looks dry and there's no condensation at all, add a small amount of water with a spray bottle. Open terrariums: Check the soil every 1–2 weeks. Water sparingly when the top layer of soil feels dry. For succulent terrariums, less is always more — overwatering is the number one killer. If you're not sure whether to water, wait another few days. Light Place your terrarium in bright, indirect light. Near a north or east-facing window is ideal. Avoid direct sunlight — the glass acts like a magnifying glass and can cook your plants. If your space is low on natural light, a small LED grow light works beautifully. Pruning As your plants grow, they may start to outgrow their space. This is a good sign! Use small scissors or tweezers to trim back any plants that are pressing against the glass or crowding their neighbors. Regular pruning keeps the terrarium looking tidy and prevents one aggressive grower from taking over. Troubleshooting Common Problems Mold or fungus: Remove the affected area immediately with tweezers. Open the lid (if closed) for better air circulation. Reduce watering. A sprinkle of cinnamon powder (a natural antifungal) on the soil surface can help. Yellowing leaves: Usually a sign of overwatering. Check our guide on why plant leaves turn yellow for more detailed troubleshooting. Foggy glass (closed terrarium): Some condensation is normal. Heavy, persistent fog means too much moisture — open the lid for a few hours. Leggy, stretched plants: Not enough light. Move the terrarium closer to a light source. Pests: Fungus gnats are the most common terrarium pest. Allow the top layer of soil to dry between waterings to discourage them, or add a thin layer of decorative sand on top. Creative Terrarium Ideas to Inspire You Once you've mastered the basics, the creative possibilities are endless: Fairy garden terrarium — Add tiny figurines, miniature furniture, and a winding pebble path Moss-only terrarium — Create a moody, forest-floor landscape using different moss varieties and small stones Desert landscape — Use sand, small rocks, and succulents for a Southwestern-inspired open terrarium Carnivorous plant terrarium — A closed terrarium with Venus flytraps and sundews creates a fascinating conversation piece Gift terrariums — Build a terrarium in a beautiful jar for a personalized, living gift that lasts Shop Terrarium Plants at Divine Roots Ready to build your first terrarium? Start with plants that are proven terrarium performers: 🌿 Fittonia Terrarium Builder Bundle — 4 assorted nerve plants, perfect for one closed terrarium 🌿 Combo Terrarium Starter Plant — A hand-selected mix for terrariums 🌿 Full Fittonia Nerve Plant Collection — Browse all our colorful nerve plant varieties 🌵 Succulent Collection — Perfect for open desert-style terrariums 🪴 Carnivorous Plant Collection — For a truly unique terrarium experience 🌱 Small Indoor Plants — Compact plants sized right for terrariums Frequently Asked Questions How long do terrariums last? A well-maintained terrarium can last for years — even decades. The world's oldest known terrarium was sealed in 1960 and was still thriving over 50 years later. Closed terrariums are particularly long-lived because they create a self-sustaining water cycle. The key to longevity is starting with the right plants, proper layering, and occasional maintenance like pruning and mold removal. Can I use regular potting soil in a terrarium? For tropical closed terrariums, a standard indoor potting mix works well. For succulent open terrariums, use a specialized cactus and succulent mix that drains quickly. Avoid soil with added fertilizer (marked "feeds for 6 months") as the enclosed environment can cause fertilizer salts to build up. For the best results, check our complete guide to potting mixes. Do terrariums need sunlight? Terrariums need bright, indirect light — not direct sunlight. The glass walls act like a greenhouse and amplify heat, which can literally cook your plants in direct sun. A spot near a north or east-facing window is ideal. If you don't have good natural light, a small LED grow light set on a timer for 10–12 hours works perfectly. Why is my closed terrarium fogging up? Light condensation on the glass is completely normal and actually a sign of a healthy water cycle. If the fog is so thick you can't see inside, the terrarium has too much moisture. Simply remove the lid for a few hours to let excess humidity escape, then reseal. Over time, you'll find the right balance. Can succulents go in a closed terrarium? No — succulents need dry, well-ventilated conditions and will quickly develop rot in the humid environment of a closed terrarium. Always use an open, lidless container for succulents and cacti. For tropical plants that love humidity (like Fittonia, ferns, and mosses), closed terrariums are the way to go. How often should I water my terrarium? For closed terrariums, you may only need to water every few weeks to a few months — watch the condensation level as your guide. For open terrariums, check the soil every 1–2 weeks and water sparingly when dry. The number one mistake new terrarium owners make is overwatering. When in doubt, wait.